I swear I am cursed with coffee makers! The one I just reviewed a few posts below? Well, it is now dead. Went to make a second pot of coffee later in the day and no electric function at all. Sigh...........
Amazon is taking it back and replacing it with a new one. Not quite sure if I even want the same one right now, but I did like it (for the whole week it worked).
Sunday, November 26, 2006
Sunday, November 19, 2006
How To Read A Seed Catalog
By Kathy Anderson
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Long before the first daffodils of the year come into bloom, seed catalogs are delivered to our mailboxes to herald the arrival of Spring. A good seed catalog contains so much information, it can sometimes be overwhelming for a novice gardener to decide which seeds to buy for their garden. Today I’ll explain how to interpret catalog descriptions for vegetable, herb and flower seeds.
Let’s start with vegetable and herb seed descriptions, since they’re fairly straightforward. A typical catalog listing for these seeds will look something like this description for lettuce seeds:
“Black Seeded Simpson (45 Day) Crisp, tender and sweet. Heat resistant. Pkt. $1.25”
In this description, “Black Seeded Simpson” is the name of the lettuce variety. “45 Day” refers to the average length of time from when the seeds germinate until the plant matures and is ready to harvest. Keep in mind that this number should be used only as an estimation. The actual maturity time will vary slightly with your particular growing conditions and the weather. This number is a rough guide and should be used mostly as a comparison with other varieties and when planning when to plant successive crops.
That’s pretty simple, right? But catalog descriptions aren’t that cut and dried for every vegetable.
Take sweet corn, for instance. The catalog description may indicate the length you can expect each ear to be at maturity, and even how many rows of kernels to expect on each ear. But you may also see some odd letters after the names of the corn varieties offered in some catalogs. EH, se, sh2, su…it’s like a secret code. Actually, these letters tell you a little about the flavor you can expect long before you ever bite into the first sweet, tender ear.
First of all, when you see any of these designations after the variety name, you’ll know you’re looking at a hybrid corn variety. These hybrids have been developed for certain desirable characteristics, such as flavor, tenderness, or durability for shipping.
An “su” hybrid is a normal sugary hybrid. They tend to be creamy and sweet, but they don’t store well. An “su” hybrid should be eaten within a couple of days of harvest. This would be a good choice for a home garden, but a poor choice for a commercial corn grower. They tend to not cross pollinate with the neighbor’s corn.
An “se” variety is a sugary enhanced hybrid. These varieties have a smooth, butter texture, very tender kernels and a longer harvest period. Sugary enhanced hybrids also tend to not cross pollinate readily, and need not be isolated from your neighbor’s corn.
Supersweet hybrid corn is designated as “sh2”. These varieties have a gene that enhances their sweetness and produces firm, crisp and juicy kernels. The texture is not as creamy as “se” or “su” varieties, but supersweet varieties do hold their flavor for up to ten days after harvest, making them a good choice for commercial growers. Supersweet corn will cross pollinate readily with other corn varieties, resulting in starchy kernels, so it’s best to plant supersweet varieties at least 25 feet from other corn in your garden.
Now let’s talk about flower seeds.
Flowering plants are categorized as either Annuals, Biennials or Perennials. Annuals will complete their entire life cycle in one growing season. Their seeds are planted in the spring, the plant grows rather quickly and blooms that same season. Marigolds and sunflowers are examples of flowering annuals.
A biennial plant will spend its first growing season establishing itself and storing energy. But it’s not until the following growing season that a biennial will bloom. Foxgloves and hollyhocks are biennials.
Perennials are plants that will continue to grow year after year without being replanted. They typically go dormant over winter and grow back from their roots the following spring. Astilbe, hostas and daylilies are examples of perennials.
Before choosing seeds from a catalog, you’ll need to know which growing zone you live in. Growing zones, also known as hardiness zones, are based on the average minimum temperatures for each zone. A growing zone map is included in every good garden catalog, making it quite easy to identify your garden’s hardiness zone. Growing zones with higher numbers are in warmer climates, while growing zones with lower numbers are in the north.
For all perennials, biennials, trees and shrubs, catalogs will indicate the range of zones in which the plants will perform consistently. For instance, Blue Fountains delphinium is listed as hardy in zones 3-7. This plant would not be likely to survive a long, cold winter in zone 2, nor would it tend to grow well in the heat of zones 8 or 9.
For best results and the most satisfaction from your gardening efforts, always choose seeds for plants that are hardy to the growing zone you live in. Buy seeds from a reputable company and avoid discounted seeds left over from the previous year. Most seed companies print planting instructions for each seed variety right on the back of the seed packet. By following these instructions carefully and choosing your seeds wisely, you’ll be well on your way to having a terrific garden.
Kathy Anderson has been an avid gardener for many years and has grown tomatoes by the acre, along with many other vegetables, flowers and landscape plants. Kathy recommends http://www.freeplants.com as a great place to learn more about gardening. Article provided by http://gardening-articles.com. If you use this article the above two links must be active.
Friday, November 10, 2006
Spring Dreams
I can't believe it's only November and I am already itching to get to work in the empty garden bed! I held off on bulbs this year, as we don't know the shape this bed will take and what is going in.
I did take 2 plants with me when me moved - the Razzmatazz cone flowers and my bleeding heart. Not sure if either will make it through the winter, as they got late plantings. Just stuck them in the ground to get them going, will move them in the spring (should they come up).
New birds around here to look at. Put up the feeders and tufted titmouse showed up, nuthatches and a woodpecker. I am really hoping for hummingbirds next year!
I did take 2 plants with me when me moved - the Razzmatazz cone flowers and my bleeding heart. Not sure if either will make it through the winter, as they got late plantings. Just stuck them in the ground to get them going, will move them in the spring (should they come up).
New birds around here to look at. Put up the feeders and tufted titmouse showed up, nuthatches and a woodpecker. I am really hoping for hummingbirds next year!
Tuesday, November 07, 2006
New gardens to do.
We have moved now, and new house means new gardens.
We actually don't have much in the way of land, but the front has a large empty garden bed. Obviously the previous owners were not gardeners at all. There is nothing but dirt. And the front lawn is non existent!
Definitely have a lot of work to do, with a whole winter to dream and plan!
We actually don't have much in the way of land, but the front has a large empty garden bed. Obviously the previous owners were not gardeners at all. There is nothing but dirt. And the front lawn is non existent!
Definitely have a lot of work to do, with a whole winter to dream and plan!
Saturday, August 12, 2006
Tuesday, July 18, 2006
Asters took a nose dive
Well, the bunnies must have decimated the asters too much. I went out the other day and all the remaining stubs turned yellow and died. Strange. All three of them at the same time.
Our house is up for sale, so of course I want the garden to look nice - without spending more money on plants! I moved some gaillarda from the side of the house to where the asters were. They aren't blooming yet, since they are small offshoots of the others. But they probably will soon.
With the heat wave, the garden is looking a little wilty, but hopefully some more rain will come.
New article on 5 medicinal herbs in the garden.
Our house is up for sale, so of course I want the garden to look nice - without spending more money on plants! I moved some gaillarda from the side of the house to where the asters were. They aren't blooming yet, since they are small offshoots of the others. But they probably will soon.
With the heat wave, the garden is looking a little wilty, but hopefully some more rain will come.
New article on 5 medicinal herbs in the garden.
Tuesday, July 11, 2006
Japanese beetles and new cone flowers
I have posted an article here onJapanese beetles.
I didn't get any of these on the first wave of blooms on my rose bushes this year. I did not use any type of control, either.
I have finally had success with a new cone flower called Razzmatazz. It took 2 years to bloom, but wow - it is so pretty! You can see a picture here.
I didn't get any of these on the first wave of blooms on my rose bushes this year. I did not use any type of control, either.
I have finally had success with a new cone flower called Razzmatazz. It took 2 years to bloom, but wow - it is so pretty! You can see a picture here.
Saturday, July 08, 2006
Killer rabbits
I know I am not alone with rabbits in the garden! I have a lovely butterfly garden planted. This year, the bunnies have really gone to town, like I planted them a personal salad bar....
This year, they ate the asters, which was expected. I was too lazy to put chicken wire around them. They also ate my black eyed susans! This was a total surprise. There are only little tiny stems left of those. However, they did not eat one of the black eyed susans that was up against the russian sage. Wonder if there is a reason for that?
The rabbits also are eating my burning bushes! They are unbelievable eating machines!! But gosh, they are so cute. We saw two tiny babies in the yard one day.
I have more articles posted here: Gardening News
This year, they ate the asters, which was expected. I was too lazy to put chicken wire around them. They also ate my black eyed susans! This was a total surprise. There are only little tiny stems left of those. However, they did not eat one of the black eyed susans that was up against the russian sage. Wonder if there is a reason for that?
The rabbits also are eating my burning bushes! They are unbelievable eating machines!! But gosh, they are so cute. We saw two tiny babies in the yard one day.
I have more articles posted here: Gardening News
Wednesday, July 05, 2006
Sunflowers and your garden
Have you ever wondered if what you know about Sunflowers And Your Garden is accurate? Consider the following paragraphs and compare what you know to the latest info on Sunflowers And Your Garden.
Sunflowers are certainly stars of the gardening world. It is hard to miss the beauty of sunflowers standing tall, either on their own or edging a bed of more traditional flowers. Few who have seen these stunning beauties can deny their stunning beauty and attractiveness.
The family of sunflowers, known scientifically as genus Helianthus, includes both annual and perennial varieties of sunflowers. As their name implies, sunflowers generally prefer full sunlight, so it is important for gardeners to choose the sunniest part of their garden when planting these stunning plants.
It is also important to take the adult size of these plants into account when planting them, and to space them accordingly. Most varieties of sunflowers are quite large, so it is important to space them widely so they will not crowd each other out and compete for nutrients.
Since sunflowers are so large and sturdy, many gardeners like to use them to border vegetable gardens, and a vegetable garden bordered by sunflowers is certainly a beautiful sight.
It's really a good idea to probe a little deeper into the subject of Sunflowers And Your Garden. What you learn may give you the confidence you need to venture into new areas.
The blooming period of sunflowers typically extends from late summer to early fall, and the growing requirements for these plants are generally easy to meet. Most varieties of sunflowers require only a well drained, modestly fertile soil in order to thrive. It is generally a good idea to amend the soil with either aged manure or a good quality commercial fertilizer. It is best to sow the sunflower seeds directly where they are intended to grow, since they set seed quickly and start to sprout very fast.
While sunflowers may be easy to grow, their seeds are popular with many unwanted garden visitors, particularly rabbits, squirrels and insects. Due to this popularly with common garden pests, it is best to sow three times as many seeds as are needed. Planting extra seeds will allow the four legged visitors to your garden to eat their fill while still providing a beautiful garden full of sunflowers.
Sunflower seeds are best planted about a foot apart. Sowing the seeds this far apart will allow the adult plants to grow the largest heads. If you plant sunflowers closer together they will develop smaller blooms and may never reach their full potential. If you are growing sunflowers for those monstrous blossoms, it is important to give them plenty of space to grow.
When working with annual varieties of sunflowers, it is important to rotate the planting area. This will keep the soil its healthiest and allow the sunflowers to achieve their best blooms.
There are many places to buy quality sunflower seeds, including the internet, mail order houses and local garden centers. As with any flower seeds, it is important to follow the planting instructions carefully to achieve the best results from these spectacular plants.
This article's coverage of the information is as complete as it can be today. But you should always leave open the possibility that future research could uncover new facts.
B. Keith Johnson is a contributing author for
Flower Gardens. Visit his other sites for
Product Reviews, Free Website Content and
Free Photo Sharing
Hotlib.com Articles - Huge collection of free articles and free reports
Sunflowers are certainly stars of the gardening world. It is hard to miss the beauty of sunflowers standing tall, either on their own or edging a bed of more traditional flowers. Few who have seen these stunning beauties can deny their stunning beauty and attractiveness.
The family of sunflowers, known scientifically as genus Helianthus, includes both annual and perennial varieties of sunflowers. As their name implies, sunflowers generally prefer full sunlight, so it is important for gardeners to choose the sunniest part of their garden when planting these stunning plants.
It is also important to take the adult size of these plants into account when planting them, and to space them accordingly. Most varieties of sunflowers are quite large, so it is important to space them widely so they will not crowd each other out and compete for nutrients.
Since sunflowers are so large and sturdy, many gardeners like to use them to border vegetable gardens, and a vegetable garden bordered by sunflowers is certainly a beautiful sight.
It's really a good idea to probe a little deeper into the subject of Sunflowers And Your Garden. What you learn may give you the confidence you need to venture into new areas.
The blooming period of sunflowers typically extends from late summer to early fall, and the growing requirements for these plants are generally easy to meet. Most varieties of sunflowers require only a well drained, modestly fertile soil in order to thrive. It is generally a good idea to amend the soil with either aged manure or a good quality commercial fertilizer. It is best to sow the sunflower seeds directly where they are intended to grow, since they set seed quickly and start to sprout very fast.
While sunflowers may be easy to grow, their seeds are popular with many unwanted garden visitors, particularly rabbits, squirrels and insects. Due to this popularly with common garden pests, it is best to sow three times as many seeds as are needed. Planting extra seeds will allow the four legged visitors to your garden to eat their fill while still providing a beautiful garden full of sunflowers.
Sunflower seeds are best planted about a foot apart. Sowing the seeds this far apart will allow the adult plants to grow the largest heads. If you plant sunflowers closer together they will develop smaller blooms and may never reach their full potential. If you are growing sunflowers for those monstrous blossoms, it is important to give them plenty of space to grow.
When working with annual varieties of sunflowers, it is important to rotate the planting area. This will keep the soil its healthiest and allow the sunflowers to achieve their best blooms.
There are many places to buy quality sunflower seeds, including the internet, mail order houses and local garden centers. As with any flower seeds, it is important to follow the planting instructions carefully to achieve the best results from these spectacular plants.
This article's coverage of the information is as complete as it can be today. But you should always leave open the possibility that future research could uncover new facts.
B. Keith Johnson is a contributing author for
Flower Gardens. Visit his other sites for
Product Reviews, Free Website Content and
Free Photo Sharing
Hotlib.com Articles - Huge collection of free articles and free reports
Sunday, July 02, 2006
How to divide perennials
Perennials are a favorite type of garden plant for many gardens as they will bloom for several seasons without replanting. Perhaps one of the best qualities of perennials is that you can divide them and make more plants for free! Dividing your perennials periodically is important as it will keep them from getting overcrowded and help insure healthy lush plants.
Many perennials can be divided easily, but this does not hold try for every variety. In general, division is easiest with perennials that grow in clumps or ones with an expanding root mass. Perennials which stem from single taproot typically cannot be divided but can be duplicated by using root cuttings or seeds.
It is important to divide the plant at a time when the plant is most likely to be receptive to this procedure. Fr plants that come up in spring and summer, the best time to divide them is in the fall Perennials that bloom in the fall or late summer should be divided in the spring.
You can divide perennials with a minimum of preparation. If you will be replanting the divisions, you should have already decided on the new area and prepared the soil to accept the new plants. If you are dividing to give the plants to a family member or friend, have an appropriate receptacle handy to put the division in.
Loosen the soil, gently, around the plant clump that you plan to divide. You can use a spading fork to scrape up the dirt and be sure not to damage any parts of the plant. The clump should then be sliced with a garden trowel and divided into four parts. Make sure your trowel is sharp so you get a clean cut, otherwise your plants could become damaged. Break up the four sections by hand into four inche by four inche sections. Plant the small sections immediately.
When you are dividing plants, make sure you thoroughly wet the soil a couple of days before you do the division. This will make it easier to dig up the clump for division. Also, you should add compost or some other organic material to the soil both around the original plant and in the soil where the new divisions will be planted. This will give the plants the nutrition they need and help them to grow strong in their new area of the garden. Once the new plants are in place, make sure you water thoroughly and fertilize appropriately.
Planning your perennial plantings and divisions can help you grow your garden without having to spend extra money. All it takes is a little bit of time and patience and you can have a large full garden on even a small budget!
Lee Dobbins writes for Backyard Garden And Patio where you can get more great gardening and landscaping tips.
Copyright Lee Dobbins - www.backyard-garden-and-patio.com
Many perennials can be divided easily, but this does not hold try for every variety. In general, division is easiest with perennials that grow in clumps or ones with an expanding root mass. Perennials which stem from single taproot typically cannot be divided but can be duplicated by using root cuttings or seeds.
It is important to divide the plant at a time when the plant is most likely to be receptive to this procedure. Fr plants that come up in spring and summer, the best time to divide them is in the fall Perennials that bloom in the fall or late summer should be divided in the spring.
You can divide perennials with a minimum of preparation. If you will be replanting the divisions, you should have already decided on the new area and prepared the soil to accept the new plants. If you are dividing to give the plants to a family member or friend, have an appropriate receptacle handy to put the division in.
Loosen the soil, gently, around the plant clump that you plan to divide. You can use a spading fork to scrape up the dirt and be sure not to damage any parts of the plant. The clump should then be sliced with a garden trowel and divided into four parts. Make sure your trowel is sharp so you get a clean cut, otherwise your plants could become damaged. Break up the four sections by hand into four inche by four inche sections. Plant the small sections immediately.
When you are dividing plants, make sure you thoroughly wet the soil a couple of days before you do the division. This will make it easier to dig up the clump for division. Also, you should add compost or some other organic material to the soil both around the original plant and in the soil where the new divisions will be planted. This will give the plants the nutrition they need and help them to grow strong in their new area of the garden. Once the new plants are in place, make sure you water thoroughly and fertilize appropriately.
Planning your perennial plantings and divisions can help you grow your garden without having to spend extra money. All it takes is a little bit of time and patience and you can have a large full garden on even a small budget!
Lee Dobbins writes for Backyard Garden And Patio where you can get more great gardening and landscaping tips.
Copyright Lee Dobbins - www.backyard-garden-and-patio.com
Friday, June 30, 2006
Annuals Vs Perennials
So you like flowers, want more color in your garden, but don’t have time to study what to plant in depth? You keep hearing the same words around flowers and in nurseries: perrenial, annual. What do they mean, and what on earth should you plant?
An annual plant is a plant which blooms only once, during its annual cycle. Spring annuals flower in spring, summer annuals in summer, etc. If you plant petunias by the garden gate and they blossom in May and you want them there again next May, you’ll have to replant. Except for a possible stray survivor that may come up next year, those particular plants are finished with their job by your garden gate.
The one exception to the rule is the half-hardy annual, often designated by "HHA" in seed catalogues. This is a plant which is not devastated by early frost, and may, given the right conditions, come up a second or more time. Biennials, on the other hand, are perennials which only bloom in the second year of their life and then some.
Perennial plants, on the other hand, come up over and over again, year after year, as long as conditions for their blooming remain beneficial. If you plant cone flowers by the garage this year, they will bloom in season, die out during the winter, then come up next year, and the next, to bloom again.
So why would you choose annuals if they require more replanting? What are the benefits of annuals? What are the possible drawbacks of perennials, and which plants are which?
First, since annuals like petunias, marigolds and impatiens are born, grow, bloom and die in one season, it seems clear that they are more labor intensive than plants that continue blooming over time. One benefit of using annuals in the garden, however, is ease of availability. Such plants are big favorites of commercial growers, and appear in the spring in a large variety of colors and types, such as double or single flowers, low or medium height plants, and a multitude of colors. Since they are often already in bloom when they are purchased, the gardener can easily visualize the appearance of the garden with their addition.
Many annuals continue to bloom and grow all through their season. They can be clipped, their spent blossoms removed, and new blossoms will form, making for long lasting color and texture in the garden. In addition, annuals are inexpensive to produce and obtain. If some of the annuals purchased fail to thrive, they can be ripped out and more annuals replanted. When a bare spot in the garden suddenly appears it'’ a simple matter to buy an annual plant or two and fill in with them until more permanent plans are possible.
Generally speaking, annuals are extremely versatile in the garden, usually bright and outgoing flowers, and predictable in habit. If you grew impatiens before, you pretty much know how they’ll grow again. They are also fairly easy to start from seed yourself, without waiting for an extensive and undependable germination or growing time.
Both annuals and perennials come in differently brnaching habits--some may contain clusters of small flowers, others, a single, flat or conical blossom on a stem. All perennials, however, are sometimes difficult to germinate. Their germination times are usually longer, and somewhat uneven. My experience with delphiniums, a favorite of mine, for example, is that of a 50% germination rate, despite trying three different seed brands and two different varieties. Perennial seedlings are usually extremely small, thin stemmed and delicate, except for the hardiest of varieties. This makes them hard to start in the home greenhouse.
Most times, the grower must rely on local greenhouses and therefore, on limited varieties of species. Some perennials are almost impossible to find when you’re ready for them, although they can be ordered in plant form from many catalogue houses, which are quite reliable. Fall planted perennials, however, do not seem reliable in the southern New England area where I live—it’s possible they do not get a good enough start in the ground before weather turns harsh, but again, many nurseries do not carry what the home gardener is seeking, and one must depend on catalogues and their often unreliable delivery systems.
If a perennial plant does not make it in the garden and needs to be replaced, it’s often next to impossible to find the species, color and size you’re looking for in nurseries. In general, perennial flowers are also not as vivid as annuals, although the sweet news is that they will return to bloom again and again in future years. Some colors come up short in perennials; admittedly there are fewer flowers in bright red shades, more in subtle and pale colors like pink, mauve, lilac, white and peach.
While perennials are not always clip-and-come-again flowers, and sometimes have a shorter blooming season than most annuals, their heights are more variable than annuals; there are tiny, low growing perennials, medium height perennials and very tall perennials. Annuals, on the other hand, do not seem to come in such varying lengths—they tend toward mid-size flowers, but here are some in varying heights which are among the more popular annuals in the northeast.
Low-growing( eight-to-ten inches or less): sweet alyssum, certain gazanias, gerbera, hybrid pelargonium (geranium), pansies and lobelia. Mid-sized (1-15 inch plants) are many: aegeratum, impatiens, petunias of many kind, lisianthus, marigolds, nasturtium, celosia and phlox. Taller varieties include rudbeckia (black-eyed susans), snapdragons, larkspur, leonotis, hollyhock, strawflowers, statice, baby’s breath, cleome and cosmos.
Perennials in the different height ranges include: low-growing—perennial candytuft, lily-of-the-valley, ice plant, plumbago, low-growing eidelweiss (alpine flowers), dianthus; myrtle and creepingthyme; medium height--arisaema, perennial alyssum, anemone, silene, dianthus, perennial gaillardia, scabiosa; tall growing—asclepias, a frikarti asters, baptisia, astilbe, clematis, canna, acchillea, agastache, bleeding heart, columbine, chrysanthemum, delphinium, digitalis, shasta daisy, lupine, penstemon, hardy phlox, potentilla, coneflower and sedum.
If you are new to gardening, it might be wise to start with annuals placed in your garden where you think they may work, taller flowers at the rear of the border or area, mid-sized ones in front of them, and finally, low-growers at the front. Study the garden in bloom, and decide where you want different color and form in the years to come. Begin to invest in the planting of perennials for height, subtle color, and variety.
Even when you have a nicely blooming perennial garden, you still may want a spot for a splash of color, different each year, for which annuals may fill the bill. In other words, don’t rush in with perennials—they’re expensive, long-lasting but you may tire of them year after year. On the other hand, planting tens or hundreds of annuals every year can be exhausting—and expensive!
The choice is yours. Whatever you decide, the color, scent, and joy of flowers can be yours—in your own unique way.
Written by Eleanor Sullo - © 2002 Pagewise
An annual plant is a plant which blooms only once, during its annual cycle. Spring annuals flower in spring, summer annuals in summer, etc. If you plant petunias by the garden gate and they blossom in May and you want them there again next May, you’ll have to replant. Except for a possible stray survivor that may come up next year, those particular plants are finished with their job by your garden gate.
The one exception to the rule is the half-hardy annual, often designated by "HHA" in seed catalogues. This is a plant which is not devastated by early frost, and may, given the right conditions, come up a second or more time. Biennials, on the other hand, are perennials which only bloom in the second year of their life and then some.
Perennial plants, on the other hand, come up over and over again, year after year, as long as conditions for their blooming remain beneficial. If you plant cone flowers by the garage this year, they will bloom in season, die out during the winter, then come up next year, and the next, to bloom again.
So why would you choose annuals if they require more replanting? What are the benefits of annuals? What are the possible drawbacks of perennials, and which plants are which?
First, since annuals like petunias, marigolds and impatiens are born, grow, bloom and die in one season, it seems clear that they are more labor intensive than plants that continue blooming over time. One benefit of using annuals in the garden, however, is ease of availability. Such plants are big favorites of commercial growers, and appear in the spring in a large variety of colors and types, such as double or single flowers, low or medium height plants, and a multitude of colors. Since they are often already in bloom when they are purchased, the gardener can easily visualize the appearance of the garden with their addition.
Many annuals continue to bloom and grow all through their season. They can be clipped, their spent blossoms removed, and new blossoms will form, making for long lasting color and texture in the garden. In addition, annuals are inexpensive to produce and obtain. If some of the annuals purchased fail to thrive, they can be ripped out and more annuals replanted. When a bare spot in the garden suddenly appears it'’ a simple matter to buy an annual plant or two and fill in with them until more permanent plans are possible.
Generally speaking, annuals are extremely versatile in the garden, usually bright and outgoing flowers, and predictable in habit. If you grew impatiens before, you pretty much know how they’ll grow again. They are also fairly easy to start from seed yourself, without waiting for an extensive and undependable germination or growing time.
Both annuals and perennials come in differently brnaching habits--some may contain clusters of small flowers, others, a single, flat or conical blossom on a stem. All perennials, however, are sometimes difficult to germinate. Their germination times are usually longer, and somewhat uneven. My experience with delphiniums, a favorite of mine, for example, is that of a 50% germination rate, despite trying three different seed brands and two different varieties. Perennial seedlings are usually extremely small, thin stemmed and delicate, except for the hardiest of varieties. This makes them hard to start in the home greenhouse.
Most times, the grower must rely on local greenhouses and therefore, on limited varieties of species. Some perennials are almost impossible to find when you’re ready for them, although they can be ordered in plant form from many catalogue houses, which are quite reliable. Fall planted perennials, however, do not seem reliable in the southern New England area where I live—it’s possible they do not get a good enough start in the ground before weather turns harsh, but again, many nurseries do not carry what the home gardener is seeking, and one must depend on catalogues and their often unreliable delivery systems.
If a perennial plant does not make it in the garden and needs to be replaced, it’s often next to impossible to find the species, color and size you’re looking for in nurseries. In general, perennial flowers are also not as vivid as annuals, although the sweet news is that they will return to bloom again and again in future years. Some colors come up short in perennials; admittedly there are fewer flowers in bright red shades, more in subtle and pale colors like pink, mauve, lilac, white and peach.
While perennials are not always clip-and-come-again flowers, and sometimes have a shorter blooming season than most annuals, their heights are more variable than annuals; there are tiny, low growing perennials, medium height perennials and very tall perennials. Annuals, on the other hand, do not seem to come in such varying lengths—they tend toward mid-size flowers, but here are some in varying heights which are among the more popular annuals in the northeast.
Low-growing( eight-to-ten inches or less): sweet alyssum, certain gazanias, gerbera, hybrid pelargonium (geranium), pansies and lobelia. Mid-sized (1-15 inch plants) are many: aegeratum, impatiens, petunias of many kind, lisianthus, marigolds, nasturtium, celosia and phlox. Taller varieties include rudbeckia (black-eyed susans), snapdragons, larkspur, leonotis, hollyhock, strawflowers, statice, baby’s breath, cleome and cosmos.
Perennials in the different height ranges include: low-growing—perennial candytuft, lily-of-the-valley, ice plant, plumbago, low-growing eidelweiss (alpine flowers), dianthus; myrtle and creepingthyme; medium height--arisaema, perennial alyssum, anemone, silene, dianthus, perennial gaillardia, scabiosa; tall growing—asclepias, a frikarti asters, baptisia, astilbe, clematis, canna, acchillea, agastache, bleeding heart, columbine, chrysanthemum, delphinium, digitalis, shasta daisy, lupine, penstemon, hardy phlox, potentilla, coneflower and sedum.
If you are new to gardening, it might be wise to start with annuals placed in your garden where you think they may work, taller flowers at the rear of the border or area, mid-sized ones in front of them, and finally, low-growers at the front. Study the garden in bloom, and decide where you want different color and form in the years to come. Begin to invest in the planting of perennials for height, subtle color, and variety.
Even when you have a nicely blooming perennial garden, you still may want a spot for a splash of color, different each year, for which annuals may fill the bill. In other words, don’t rush in with perennials—they’re expensive, long-lasting but you may tire of them year after year. On the other hand, planting tens or hundreds of annuals every year can be exhausting—and expensive!
The choice is yours. Whatever you decide, the color, scent, and joy of flowers can be yours—in your own unique way.
Written by Eleanor Sullo - © 2002 Pagewise
Wednesday, June 28, 2006
Snapdragons
One of nature's most stunning examples of color and beauty is the snapdragon.
Rows of perfectly formed, beautifully painted flowers adorn many stems. These well-favored annuals come in a wide assortment of colors and varieties. The website "Annuals A-Z: Choosing and Growing Antirrhinums", written and published by Graham Rice in 1999, says most annuals are not available in as many colors as the snapdragon. Various shades of white, scarlet, yellow, purple, pink, and peach are available. Two-toned snapdragons are particularly showy.
This softly scented flower comes in various sizes as well, ranging from dwarf varieties to varieties that can reach a height of four feet, according to the same article. Taller varieties make beautiful backdrops for shorter plants, and shorter to medium height varieties make nice borders. "Annuals A-Z: Choosing and Growing Antirrhinums" recommends "Lampion" for hanging baskets, which is a lovely cascading variety. Recommended for window boxes is a dwarf variety called "Kim". It boosts dazzling orange and yellow flowers. "Burpee: Complete Gardener" published in 1995 by Macmillan, suggests planting low-growing varieties as ground cover. One such variety is "Floral Carpet Hybrid". It also makes a nice flower for a border or window box.
Snapdragons produce more blooms when temperatures are cool, according to "Burpee: Complete Gardener". Snapdragons are often sold in garden centers and greenhouses, and they can be purchased as fully developed plants. If starting snapdragons from seed, they should be planted indoors approximately two to three months before spring planting.
The same book says snapdragons require light to begin sprouting, so the seeds should be sprinkled on top of the soil in peat pots, trays, or containers. Covering the peat pots, trays, or containers with clear plastic will help retain valuable moisture during germination adds "Burpee: Complete Gardener". Also, pinching off the tops of snapdragons that are about four inches tall will encourage the plant to branch out. Before you transfer your snapdragons to the outdoors, check the plant hardiness zone for your particular location. The same article says light frost will not adversely affect snapdragons, but heavy frost can be damaging. In addition, they should slowly be introduced to the outdoors before transplanting. Setting them outside for a few hours each day will strengthen and prepare them for outdoor conditions.
"Burpee: Complete Gardener" recommends planting snapdragons while temperatures are still cool in spring or early in the summer. They will do best in a sunny location with soil that drains well. The same book says the first blooms on snapdragons are usually the largest, but a greater quantity of flowers will bloom after the first ones are finished. It goes on to say that flowering will slow down during hot weather and will resume again when the temperature drops. Also, dead flower stalks should be removed to promote new growth. "Burpee: Complete Gardener" recommends supporting taller varieties with stakes.
Snapdragons are a spectacular addition to any flower bed or garden. They are easy to grow, are very versatile, and you will appreciate the touch of color and beauty they add to your property.
Written by Kimberly Osburn - © 2002 Pagewise
Rows of perfectly formed, beautifully painted flowers adorn many stems. These well-favored annuals come in a wide assortment of colors and varieties. The website "Annuals A-Z: Choosing and Growing Antirrhinums", written and published by Graham Rice in 1999, says most annuals are not available in as many colors as the snapdragon. Various shades of white, scarlet, yellow, purple, pink, and peach are available. Two-toned snapdragons are particularly showy.
This softly scented flower comes in various sizes as well, ranging from dwarf varieties to varieties that can reach a height of four feet, according to the same article. Taller varieties make beautiful backdrops for shorter plants, and shorter to medium height varieties make nice borders. "Annuals A-Z: Choosing and Growing Antirrhinums" recommends "Lampion" for hanging baskets, which is a lovely cascading variety. Recommended for window boxes is a dwarf variety called "Kim". It boosts dazzling orange and yellow flowers. "Burpee: Complete Gardener" published in 1995 by Macmillan, suggests planting low-growing varieties as ground cover. One such variety is "Floral Carpet Hybrid". It also makes a nice flower for a border or window box.
Snapdragons produce more blooms when temperatures are cool, according to "Burpee: Complete Gardener". Snapdragons are often sold in garden centers and greenhouses, and they can be purchased as fully developed plants. If starting snapdragons from seed, they should be planted indoors approximately two to three months before spring planting.
The same book says snapdragons require light to begin sprouting, so the seeds should be sprinkled on top of the soil in peat pots, trays, or containers. Covering the peat pots, trays, or containers with clear plastic will help retain valuable moisture during germination adds "Burpee: Complete Gardener". Also, pinching off the tops of snapdragons that are about four inches tall will encourage the plant to branch out. Before you transfer your snapdragons to the outdoors, check the plant hardiness zone for your particular location. The same article says light frost will not adversely affect snapdragons, but heavy frost can be damaging. In addition, they should slowly be introduced to the outdoors before transplanting. Setting them outside for a few hours each day will strengthen and prepare them for outdoor conditions.
"Burpee: Complete Gardener" recommends planting snapdragons while temperatures are still cool in spring or early in the summer. They will do best in a sunny location with soil that drains well. The same book says the first blooms on snapdragons are usually the largest, but a greater quantity of flowers will bloom after the first ones are finished. It goes on to say that flowering will slow down during hot weather and will resume again when the temperature drops. Also, dead flower stalks should be removed to promote new growth. "Burpee: Complete Gardener" recommends supporting taller varieties with stakes.
Snapdragons are a spectacular addition to any flower bed or garden. They are easy to grow, are very versatile, and you will appreciate the touch of color and beauty they add to your property.
Written by Kimberly Osburn - © 2002 Pagewise
Monday, June 26, 2006
Planting Your Herb Garden
Whether you want to plant an herb garden for culinary purposes or to use as medicinal healing. You need to know how to first begin to plant your garden.
You need to decide if you want to do a small container garden or find a small piece of land in your yard to till up and use for your herb garden. When deciding to do a container garden you need to find a nice part sun and part shade area to place your container in. Container gardening also allows you to bring in your herb garden during bad storms and not worry about your plants drowning should you get hit by a bad rain storm.
Container Gardening:
Go to your local home garden store and look at the variety of containers, have your list of herbs that you want to plant so you know about how many containers you may need. When I use to do container gardening I would place about 4-5 herbs in one container at one time I had 6 containers, hence why I now use a space in my yard for my garden. Container gardening is great if you are just starting out or if you cannot plant in your yard or you live in an apartment.
Be sure to purchase planting soil for your containers as using soil from your yard is not porous enough to use in containers. I was just at our local garden store this spring and saw that they do sell organic planting soil, I have not used it but the bag stated that it was better for growing herbs and vegetables as there was no fertilizer in the planting soil. You do not want to use chemicals in your herb or vegetable garden as you will be eating these plants.
Once you have purchased your containers, soil and herbs you need to plant them as soon as possible as the soil the plants are planted in dry out quickly.
You want to place the plants about 6 inches apart so depending on the size of your container will depend on how many herbs you plant in each container.
Place the gardening soil in the container then place the plants still in their containers on the soil to determine how you want to plant them.
Use a sturdy shovel to dig about an inch or two deep into the soil and gently take the herb plant out of its container. Be sure to gently separate the roots before planting. Place a small amount of water into the hole and place the herb into the hole. Be sure to cover all the roots so none are showing. Then water again gently.
Once all your containers are planted set them out where you have already pre-determined you want them to be.
Be sure to water your herb garden, to check if they need water test the soil if it feels dry water, if its still moist check it again the next day.
Yard Garden:
Take a walk around your yard to see where you want to plant your herb garden. Determine how big you want the garden to be. Till the ground. You can do this either by using a hoe or by using a tiller. I do recommend a tiller as I have done both and after using a hoe my back hurt, but if you have no choice a hoe will do just as well.
Now you need to get on your hands and knees, I purchased a nice knee pad so that my knees didn't hurt kneeling in the dirt. You need to pick out all the huge chunks of grass, you can also take a garden rake and rake out all the tilled grass and weeds. Once you have that done take your herbs and place them in the spot you want to plant them. Remember to read the tags so you know just how far to place them apart so that they have room to grow.
When you are ready to plant be sure to have these items on hand to make the job easier:
Hand shovel
a container of water
a knee pad
your herbs
a notebook to write down where each herb is and what day you planted it
When you are planting the herbs be sure to plant them about 1-2 inches deep and add water to the hole before adding the herb. Be sure to gently break apart the roots and gently place the herb in the hole. Now take the dirt and cover all of the roots. Gently water again, the herbs will be in shock at first and may look droopy but don't worry they will spring back.
Since your herb garden is in the ground you will need to be sure to be on the lookout for pests and be sure to check them daily to see if they need water. Some insects are good for your plants for example ladybugs, praying mantis and bees.
Everyday write down in your notebook what you have done to your garden. Do research on your herbs and see how you can use them. Don't worry if at first your garden does not do well, once you learn how your soil is and the best places to grow your herbs it will become second nature.
Good luck with your herb garden.
Rebecca White is a mother to 3 boys ages 12, 10 and 4. She loves to grow herbs for cooking and medicinal uses. Rebecca owns http://www.medicinalherbguide.com where you can find many more tips and great articles on owning your own medicinal herb garden. Be sure to stop in to see books she recommends using and software that saves you time when recording your plants progress. Rebecca also owns http://www.supportformoms.com, http://www.experts4wahms.com. Gardening is Rebecca's hobby and passion.
You need to decide if you want to do a small container garden or find a small piece of land in your yard to till up and use for your herb garden. When deciding to do a container garden you need to find a nice part sun and part shade area to place your container in. Container gardening also allows you to bring in your herb garden during bad storms and not worry about your plants drowning should you get hit by a bad rain storm.
Container Gardening:
Go to your local home garden store and look at the variety of containers, have your list of herbs that you want to plant so you know about how many containers you may need. When I use to do container gardening I would place about 4-5 herbs in one container at one time I had 6 containers, hence why I now use a space in my yard for my garden. Container gardening is great if you are just starting out or if you cannot plant in your yard or you live in an apartment.
Be sure to purchase planting soil for your containers as using soil from your yard is not porous enough to use in containers. I was just at our local garden store this spring and saw that they do sell organic planting soil, I have not used it but the bag stated that it was better for growing herbs and vegetables as there was no fertilizer in the planting soil. You do not want to use chemicals in your herb or vegetable garden as you will be eating these plants.
Once you have purchased your containers, soil and herbs you need to plant them as soon as possible as the soil the plants are planted in dry out quickly.
You want to place the plants about 6 inches apart so depending on the size of your container will depend on how many herbs you plant in each container.
Place the gardening soil in the container then place the plants still in their containers on the soil to determine how you want to plant them.
Use a sturdy shovel to dig about an inch or two deep into the soil and gently take the herb plant out of its container. Be sure to gently separate the roots before planting. Place a small amount of water into the hole and place the herb into the hole. Be sure to cover all the roots so none are showing. Then water again gently.
Once all your containers are planted set them out where you have already pre-determined you want them to be.
Be sure to water your herb garden, to check if they need water test the soil if it feels dry water, if its still moist check it again the next day.
Yard Garden:
Take a walk around your yard to see where you want to plant your herb garden. Determine how big you want the garden to be. Till the ground. You can do this either by using a hoe or by using a tiller. I do recommend a tiller as I have done both and after using a hoe my back hurt, but if you have no choice a hoe will do just as well.
Now you need to get on your hands and knees, I purchased a nice knee pad so that my knees didn't hurt kneeling in the dirt. You need to pick out all the huge chunks of grass, you can also take a garden rake and rake out all the tilled grass and weeds. Once you have that done take your herbs and place them in the spot you want to plant them. Remember to read the tags so you know just how far to place them apart so that they have room to grow.
When you are ready to plant be sure to have these items on hand to make the job easier:
Hand shovel
a container of water
a knee pad
your herbs
a notebook to write down where each herb is and what day you planted it
When you are planting the herbs be sure to plant them about 1-2 inches deep and add water to the hole before adding the herb. Be sure to gently break apart the roots and gently place the herb in the hole. Now take the dirt and cover all of the roots. Gently water again, the herbs will be in shock at first and may look droopy but don't worry they will spring back.
Since your herb garden is in the ground you will need to be sure to be on the lookout for pests and be sure to check them daily to see if they need water. Some insects are good for your plants for example ladybugs, praying mantis and bees.
Everyday write down in your notebook what you have done to your garden. Do research on your herbs and see how you can use them. Don't worry if at first your garden does not do well, once you learn how your soil is and the best places to grow your herbs it will become second nature.
Good luck with your herb garden.
Rebecca White is a mother to 3 boys ages 12, 10 and 4. She loves to grow herbs for cooking and medicinal uses. Rebecca owns http://www.medicinalherbguide.com where you can find many more tips and great articles on owning your own medicinal herb garden. Be sure to stop in to see books she recommends using and software that saves you time when recording your plants progress. Rebecca also owns http://www.supportformoms.com, http://www.experts4wahms.com. Gardening is Rebecca's hobby and passion.
Sunday, June 25, 2006
Creating your own compost
Having an ample supply of good rich compost is the
gardeners dream. It has many uses, and all of those uses will
result in nicer plants. However, composting can be time
consuming and hard work. I place a reasonable value on my
time, so spending hours and hours turning compost piles doesn’t
qualify as a worthwhile exercise, at least in my book.
Nonetheless, I do compost, but I do so on my terms.
I built two composting bins. Each bin is five feet
wide, five feet deep, and four feet high. I built the bins by
sinking 4” by 4” posts in the ground for the corners, and then
nailed 2 by 4’s and 1 by 4’s, alternating on the sides. I left
2” gaps between the boards for air circulation. The 2 by 4’s
are rigid enough to keep the sides from bowing out, and in
between each 2 by 4 I used 1 by 4’s to save a little money.
The bins are only 3 sided, I left the front of the bins open so
they can be filled and emptied easily.
Photos of my compost bins are on this page:
http://www.freeplants.com\composting.htm
I started by filling just one of the bins. I put grass
clippings, dried leaves, and shrub clippings in the bins. I
try not to put more than 6” of each material on a layer. You
don’t want 24” of grass clippings in the bin, you should
alternate layers of green and brown material. If necessary,
keep a few bags of dry leaves around so you can alternate
layers of brown waste and green waste. When we root cuttings
we use coarse sand in the flats, so when it’s time to pull the
rooted cuttings out of the flats, the old sand goes on the
compost pile. In or little backyard nursery we also have some
plants in containers that do not survive. Rather than pulling
the dead plant and the weeds out of the container, and then
dumping the potting soil back on the soil pile, we just dump
the whole container in the compost bin, this adds more brown
material to the mix, and is a lot easier than separating the
soil and the weeds.
Once the bin is full, the rules of composting say that
you should turn the material in the bin every few weeks. There
is no way that I have time to do that, so this is what I do. I
pack as much material in the bin as I can, before I start
filling the second bin. I pile the material as high as I
possibly can, and even let it spill out in front of the bin.
Then I cover all the fresh material with mulch or potting soil,
whatever brown material I can find. Then when I’m out working
in the garden I set a small sprinkler on top of the pile and
turn it on very low, so a small spray of water runs on the
material. Since I have a good water well, this doesn’t cost me
anything, so I let it run for at least two hours as often as I
can. This keeps the material damp, and the moisture will cause
the pile to heat up, which is what makes the composting action
take place.
Once I have the first bin completely full, I start
using the second bin. As the material in the first bin starts
to break down, it will settle, and the bin is no longer heaped
up, so I just keep shoveling the material that I piled in front
of the bin, up on top of the pile, until all the material is
either in the bin, or piled on top of the heap. Then I just
leave it alone, except to water it once in a while. The
watering isn’t necessary, it just speeds the process.
Because I don’t turn the pile, I can’t expect all of
the material to rot completely. The material in the center is
going to break down more than the material on the edges, but
most of it does breakdown quite well.
The next step works great for me because I’ve got a
small nursery, so I keep a pile of potting soil on hand at all
times. But you can really do the same thing by just buying two
or three yards of shredded mulch to get started, and piling it
up near your compost bins. If you do this, you will always
have a supply of good compost to work with.
Shredded bark, left in a pile will eventually breakdown
and become great compost. The potting soil that I use is about
80% rotted bark. I make potting soil by purchasing fine
textured, and dark hardwood bark mulch, and I just put it in a
pile and let it rot. The secret is to keep the pile low and
flat, so that it does not shed the rain water away, you want
the mulch to stay as wet as possible, this will cause it to
breakdown fairly quick.
So I keep a pile of rotted bark mulch near my compost
bins. When both bins are completely full, I empty the bin
containing the oldest material by piling it on top of my rotted
bark mulch. I make sure the pile of rotted mulch is wide and
flat on top so that when I put the material from the compost
bin on top of the pile, the compost material is only 5 to 10
inches thick. My mulch pile might be 12’ wide, but it may only
be 24 to 30 inches high. Once I have all the compost on top of
the pile, then I go around the edge of the pile with a shovel,
and take some of the material from the edges of the pile and
toss it up on top of the pile, covering the compost with at
least 6” of rotted bark. This will cause the compost material
to decompose the rest of the way.
Once you get this system started, you never want to use
all of the material in the pile. Always keep at least 2 to 3
cubic yards on hand so you’ve got something to mix with your
compost. If you use a lot of compost material like I do, then
you should buy more material and add to your pile in the late
summer or fall, once you are done using it for the season.
Around here many of the supply companies sell a compost
material that is already broken down quite well. This is what
I buy to add to my stock pile. But I try to make sure that I
have at least 3 yards of old material on hand, then I’ll add
another 3 yards of fresh material to that. Then in the spring
I’ll empty one of the compost bins and add the compost to the
top of the pile.
The pile of usable compost will be layers of material,
some more composted than others. Kind of like a sandwich. So
what I do is chip off a section of the pile from the edge,
spread it out on the ground so it’s only about 8” deep, then
run over it with my small rototiller. This mixes it together
perfectly, and I shovel it onto the potting bench.
Having a pile of rotted compost near your compost bins
is great because if you have a lot of leaves or grass
clippings, you can throw some rotted compost in the bin in
order to maintain that layered effect that is necessary in
order for the composting process to work well.
Sure this process is a little work, but it sure is nice
to have a place to get rid of organic waste anytime I like.
Then down the road when I have beautiful compost to add to my
potting soil, I am grateful to have done the right thing
earlier, and I know that I have wasted nothing.
Michael J. McGroarty is the author of this article. Visit his most interesting website, http://www.freeplants.com and sign up for his excellent gardening newsletter, and grab a FREE copy of his E-book, "Easy Plant Propagation"
gardeners dream. It has many uses, and all of those uses will
result in nicer plants. However, composting can be time
consuming and hard work. I place a reasonable value on my
time, so spending hours and hours turning compost piles doesn’t
qualify as a worthwhile exercise, at least in my book.
Nonetheless, I do compost, but I do so on my terms.
I built two composting bins. Each bin is five feet
wide, five feet deep, and four feet high. I built the bins by
sinking 4” by 4” posts in the ground for the corners, and then
nailed 2 by 4’s and 1 by 4’s, alternating on the sides. I left
2” gaps between the boards for air circulation. The 2 by 4’s
are rigid enough to keep the sides from bowing out, and in
between each 2 by 4 I used 1 by 4’s to save a little money.
The bins are only 3 sided, I left the front of the bins open so
they can be filled and emptied easily.
Photos of my compost bins are on this page:
http://www.freeplants.com\composting.htm
I started by filling just one of the bins. I put grass
clippings, dried leaves, and shrub clippings in the bins. I
try not to put more than 6” of each material on a layer. You
don’t want 24” of grass clippings in the bin, you should
alternate layers of green and brown material. If necessary,
keep a few bags of dry leaves around so you can alternate
layers of brown waste and green waste. When we root cuttings
we use coarse sand in the flats, so when it’s time to pull the
rooted cuttings out of the flats, the old sand goes on the
compost pile. In or little backyard nursery we also have some
plants in containers that do not survive. Rather than pulling
the dead plant and the weeds out of the container, and then
dumping the potting soil back on the soil pile, we just dump
the whole container in the compost bin, this adds more brown
material to the mix, and is a lot easier than separating the
soil and the weeds.
Once the bin is full, the rules of composting say that
you should turn the material in the bin every few weeks. There
is no way that I have time to do that, so this is what I do. I
pack as much material in the bin as I can, before I start
filling the second bin. I pile the material as high as I
possibly can, and even let it spill out in front of the bin.
Then I cover all the fresh material with mulch or potting soil,
whatever brown material I can find. Then when I’m out working
in the garden I set a small sprinkler on top of the pile and
turn it on very low, so a small spray of water runs on the
material. Since I have a good water well, this doesn’t cost me
anything, so I let it run for at least two hours as often as I
can. This keeps the material damp, and the moisture will cause
the pile to heat up, which is what makes the composting action
take place.
Once I have the first bin completely full, I start
using the second bin. As the material in the first bin starts
to break down, it will settle, and the bin is no longer heaped
up, so I just keep shoveling the material that I piled in front
of the bin, up on top of the pile, until all the material is
either in the bin, or piled on top of the heap. Then I just
leave it alone, except to water it once in a while. The
watering isn’t necessary, it just speeds the process.
Because I don’t turn the pile, I can’t expect all of
the material to rot completely. The material in the center is
going to break down more than the material on the edges, but
most of it does breakdown quite well.
The next step works great for me because I’ve got a
small nursery, so I keep a pile of potting soil on hand at all
times. But you can really do the same thing by just buying two
or three yards of shredded mulch to get started, and piling it
up near your compost bins. If you do this, you will always
have a supply of good compost to work with.
Shredded bark, left in a pile will eventually breakdown
and become great compost. The potting soil that I use is about
80% rotted bark. I make potting soil by purchasing fine
textured, and dark hardwood bark mulch, and I just put it in a
pile and let it rot. The secret is to keep the pile low and
flat, so that it does not shed the rain water away, you want
the mulch to stay as wet as possible, this will cause it to
breakdown fairly quick.
So I keep a pile of rotted bark mulch near my compost
bins. When both bins are completely full, I empty the bin
containing the oldest material by piling it on top of my rotted
bark mulch. I make sure the pile of rotted mulch is wide and
flat on top so that when I put the material from the compost
bin on top of the pile, the compost material is only 5 to 10
inches thick. My mulch pile might be 12’ wide, but it may only
be 24 to 30 inches high. Once I have all the compost on top of
the pile, then I go around the edge of the pile with a shovel,
and take some of the material from the edges of the pile and
toss it up on top of the pile, covering the compost with at
least 6” of rotted bark. This will cause the compost material
to decompose the rest of the way.
Once you get this system started, you never want to use
all of the material in the pile. Always keep at least 2 to 3
cubic yards on hand so you’ve got something to mix with your
compost. If you use a lot of compost material like I do, then
you should buy more material and add to your pile in the late
summer or fall, once you are done using it for the season.
Around here many of the supply companies sell a compost
material that is already broken down quite well. This is what
I buy to add to my stock pile. But I try to make sure that I
have at least 3 yards of old material on hand, then I’ll add
another 3 yards of fresh material to that. Then in the spring
I’ll empty one of the compost bins and add the compost to the
top of the pile.
The pile of usable compost will be layers of material,
some more composted than others. Kind of like a sandwich. So
what I do is chip off a section of the pile from the edge,
spread it out on the ground so it’s only about 8” deep, then
run over it with my small rototiller. This mixes it together
perfectly, and I shovel it onto the potting bench.
Having a pile of rotted compost near your compost bins
is great because if you have a lot of leaves or grass
clippings, you can throw some rotted compost in the bin in
order to maintain that layered effect that is necessary in
order for the composting process to work well.
Sure this process is a little work, but it sure is nice
to have a place to get rid of organic waste anytime I like.
Then down the road when I have beautiful compost to add to my
potting soil, I am grateful to have done the right thing
earlier, and I know that I have wasted nothing.
Michael J. McGroarty is the author of this article. Visit his most interesting website, http://www.freeplants.com and sign up for his excellent gardening newsletter, and grab a FREE copy of his E-book, "Easy Plant Propagation"
Gardens A' plenty!
Welcome to my gardening blog! I love flower gardening. I look forward to sharing all types of gardening tips and tricks.
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