Sunsprite Floribunda Rose.
From my garden. I love this rose, it is so fragrant.
- repeat bloomer
- extremely fragrant
- 4' feet tall by 3 feet wide
- zone 5-11
Friday, August 15, 2008
Sunsprite Rose
Sunsprite Floribunda Rose.
From my garden. I love this rose, it is so fragrant.
- repeat bloomer
- extremely fragrant
- 4' feet tall by 3 feet wide
- zone 5-11
Sunday, July 01, 2007
Yaddo Gardens
We visited the Yaddo gardens in Saratoga Springs - beautiful!
http://www.yaddo.org/garden/home.asp
http://www.yaddo.org/garden/home.asp
Tuesday, May 01, 2007
Environmentally Safe Methods of Pest Control
Environmentally Safe Methods of Pest Control
By: Gail Metcalf
Nobody wants pests in their gardens and flowerbeds. They can eat on vegetables or strip flowers off the stems. Treating the pests has to be done in a way that won't harm plants or humans, yet will protect our precious vegetables and flowers. We know we must be good to the environment and we can't just spray every chemical we can't even pronounce. So we must look at natural pest control solutions.
If we want to spend all of our time in the garden, physically removing the pests is the best natural way to get pests under control. Either picking the bugs and insects off of the plants or creating barriers at the base or over the whole area or filling in holes where pests are entering the area. The problem is, they seem to always find another way in. If snails are eating at plants, they can generally be found where it is damp and hiding under rocks and bricks near foliage that is strap like.
Using other organisms to get rid of your pest is biological warfare. Many insects have natural enemies that will take care of the problem for you. Ladybugs, dragonflies and green lacewings love to help with your pest problem of aphids and other pests. They are also enjoyable to observe in the garden and do not harm any of your plants or food. Best of all, when the pests (their food supply) are gone, they will leave too, looking for more food somewhere else. Water can be used to attract dragonflies. Bacterial insecticides like b. Thuringienis work well on caterpillars.
A good home remedy pest control for green aphids and mites is to mix one tablespoon of liquid soap and 1 cup of vegetable oil together. Use one teaspoon of this solution in one cup of water to spray on the aphids and mites.
In all but the worst cases, organic pest control can be used to control the environment in a safe manner. Chemicals should only be used as a last resort when you just can't keep up with the pests. When you decide to go with chemical sprays, you should work first with the least toxic and progress from there as needed. The least toxic controls use horticultural oils, insecticidal soaps, and dehydrating dusts. Read all directions and make sure that the pest you are trying to control is listed on the label for the product you use.
Article Source:
Gail Metcalf provides pest control information on her Home Improvement website.
By: Gail Metcalf
Nobody wants pests in their gardens and flowerbeds. They can eat on vegetables or strip flowers off the stems. Treating the pests has to be done in a way that won't harm plants or humans, yet will protect our precious vegetables and flowers. We know we must be good to the environment and we can't just spray every chemical we can't even pronounce. So we must look at natural pest control solutions.
If we want to spend all of our time in the garden, physically removing the pests is the best natural way to get pests under control. Either picking the bugs and insects off of the plants or creating barriers at the base or over the whole area or filling in holes where pests are entering the area. The problem is, they seem to always find another way in. If snails are eating at plants, they can generally be found where it is damp and hiding under rocks and bricks near foliage that is strap like.
Using other organisms to get rid of your pest is biological warfare. Many insects have natural enemies that will take care of the problem for you. Ladybugs, dragonflies and green lacewings love to help with your pest problem of aphids and other pests. They are also enjoyable to observe in the garden and do not harm any of your plants or food. Best of all, when the pests (their food supply) are gone, they will leave too, looking for more food somewhere else. Water can be used to attract dragonflies. Bacterial insecticides like b. Thuringienis work well on caterpillars.
A good home remedy pest control for green aphids and mites is to mix one tablespoon of liquid soap and 1 cup of vegetable oil together. Use one teaspoon of this solution in one cup of water to spray on the aphids and mites.
In all but the worst cases, organic pest control can be used to control the environment in a safe manner. Chemicals should only be used as a last resort when you just can't keep up with the pests. When you decide to go with chemical sprays, you should work first with the least toxic and progress from there as needed. The least toxic controls use horticultural oils, insecticidal soaps, and dehydrating dusts. Read all directions and make sure that the pest you are trying to control is listed on the label for the product you use.
Article Source:
Gail Metcalf provides pest control information on her Home Improvement website.
Friday, April 06, 2007
Gardening Gifts For All Occasions
Gardening Gifts For All Occasions
by Nicky Pilkington
There is nothing nicer than receiving a gift relating to one's passion. If your loved one's passion is gardening, then show your thoughtfulness by giving a gift that will be truly appreciated.
There are so many great gardening gifts that the only constraint is your own budget.
If your budget is small, go for things like gloves, kneepads or even a shady hat. A pretty pot (or a watering-can) filled with a small bag of potting mix, a packet of bulbs, some gloves and a small trowel or other tool will be received with delight by most gardeners. There are many hand tools at hardware stores that are reasonably priced.
If you feel that is too ordinary, how about a subscription to a gardening magazine? A tiny bit more expensive perhaps, but it will give twelve full months of delight. A book on gardening is another idea, but make sure your recipient does not already havethe one you choose. Books are often heavily discounted at Christmas time, so you may get a bargain.
On the other hand, a pot that contains a flowering plant is usually a welcomed gift. Be sure to choose a plant that is suited to your climate. Sometimes plants are sent from tropical to temperate zones and kept in artificial conditions in the store. These plants will not do well once taken from their environment. Shrub roses are hardy and attractive and grow in many climates. Tulips do best in the cooler climate.
If your budget is strong, a more expensive tool may be appropriate. A pull-trolley is easier to use than a wheelbarrow and, like some electric tools, is still not terribly expensive. Small electric tools such as whipper-snippers can retail for as little as $20.00. Or if your friend has a hose but not a hose reel, then that would be a more useful gift that he would truly appreciate.
Automatic lawn mowers, electric cultivators, hedge trimmers and brush cutters are in the more expensive price range and you are the only one who can decide whether that is an appropriate gift. However, when the recipient realizes you have given a gift that complements his passion, expensive or not, it will certainly become the best gift your friend has ever received.
Article source: Article Base
For more articles, please visit Gardening News!
by Nicky Pilkington
There is nothing nicer than receiving a gift relating to one's passion. If your loved one's passion is gardening, then show your thoughtfulness by giving a gift that will be truly appreciated.
There are so many great gardening gifts that the only constraint is your own budget.
If your budget is small, go for things like gloves, kneepads or even a shady hat. A pretty pot (or a watering-can) filled with a small bag of potting mix, a packet of bulbs, some gloves and a small trowel or other tool will be received with delight by most gardeners. There are many hand tools at hardware stores that are reasonably priced.
If you feel that is too ordinary, how about a subscription to a gardening magazine? A tiny bit more expensive perhaps, but it will give twelve full months of delight. A book on gardening is another idea, but make sure your recipient does not already havethe one you choose. Books are often heavily discounted at Christmas time, so you may get a bargain.
On the other hand, a pot that contains a flowering plant is usually a welcomed gift. Be sure to choose a plant that is suited to your climate. Sometimes plants are sent from tropical to temperate zones and kept in artificial conditions in the store. These plants will not do well once taken from their environment. Shrub roses are hardy and attractive and grow in many climates. Tulips do best in the cooler climate.
If your budget is strong, a more expensive tool may be appropriate. A pull-trolley is easier to use than a wheelbarrow and, like some electric tools, is still not terribly expensive. Small electric tools such as whipper-snippers can retail for as little as $20.00. Or if your friend has a hose but not a hose reel, then that would be a more useful gift that he would truly appreciate.
Automatic lawn mowers, electric cultivators, hedge trimmers and brush cutters are in the more expensive price range and you are the only one who can decide whether that is an appropriate gift. However, when the recipient realizes you have given a gift that complements his passion, expensive or not, it will certainly become the best gift your friend has ever received.
Article source: Article Base
For more articles, please visit Gardening News!
Tuesday, April 03, 2007
Clean Slate
We have a beautiful clean slate to start from with our new garden. Since the front area also has no grass, we can define the edges of the new bed.
Sunday the railroad ties were removed from whatever the old bed had. Now we just need some warmer dry weather to work the soil!
Sunday the railroad ties were removed from whatever the old bed had. Now we just need some warmer dry weather to work the soil!
Monday, January 22, 2007
Hydroponic Gardening - The Pros and the Cons
Hydroponic Gardening - The Pros and the Cons
By: Tony Buel
When it comes to some of the problems we are facing in the world with regards to food production, hydroponic gardening offers some promising solutions. In the poorer countries where the terrain or climate is inhospitable to agriculture, hydroponics offers a means of growing healthy foods easily. Also, in those areas where the soil has lost its nutrients or fertile land is hard to come by, hydroponics can produce healthy foods using minimum space and resources.
As with all things though, it is not all good news. There are many pros and cons any grower should weigh before deciding to commit to hydroponic gardening.
First, the pros. In comparison to traditional farming, hydroponic growing can be more productive in two ways. For one, hydroponic gardening saves space. Plants can be placed much more closely together than in traditional fields because of the way nutrients are provided to them. As many as four times as many plants can be grown in same amount of space using hydroponic techniques! Secondly, hydroponics minimizes many of the problems associated with traditional farming which means less sickly, damaged, or wasted crops.
Because hydroponic growers customize their own nutrients mixes, it takes the guess work out of figuring out which field has the best soil and proper nutrition for which crop. The nutrient mix is the right one for the particular plant, in the right ratios, every time. Also, soil based diseases are virtually eliminated because there is no soil. These two factors alone make hydroponics an extremely efficient method for producing food.
Benefits accrue to the environment as well. The water consumption in hydroponic growing is significantly less than traditional methods. In many cases, hydroponic crops use just one tenth of the water! Also, the water that is used is used more effectively. For example weeds cannot come in and steal part of the crop's water supply. And because the crops are in a controlled environment and not in a field, there is no pesticide run-off water to contaminate the surrounding ground.
The benefits are not without their costs however. The expense of hydroponic growing is an area where improvements need to be made. The nutrient mixtures and growing mediums used can be expensive.
Hydroponic growing also requires an increase in energy consumption. Much hydroponic growing happens in greenhouses, where significant amounts of electricity are used in order to give the hydroponic plants all the light they need.
While research is happening to try and bring the costs down (such as in the field of aquaponics), hydroponics can be financially prohibitive for those areas where it is most needed.
Research in the field of hydroponics is filled with promise and much research needs to be done. Many of the problems are being addressed however, and many farmers and amateur gardeners are eagerly awaiting new developments in this promising field.
Hydroponic Systems can be a fun and productive new way of gardening for you. We have tips and resources to get you started fast!
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
More articles can be found at Gardening News
By: Tony Buel
When it comes to some of the problems we are facing in the world with regards to food production, hydroponic gardening offers some promising solutions. In the poorer countries where the terrain or climate is inhospitable to agriculture, hydroponics offers a means of growing healthy foods easily. Also, in those areas where the soil has lost its nutrients or fertile land is hard to come by, hydroponics can produce healthy foods using minimum space and resources.
As with all things though, it is not all good news. There are many pros and cons any grower should weigh before deciding to commit to hydroponic gardening.
First, the pros. In comparison to traditional farming, hydroponic growing can be more productive in two ways. For one, hydroponic gardening saves space. Plants can be placed much more closely together than in traditional fields because of the way nutrients are provided to them. As many as four times as many plants can be grown in same amount of space using hydroponic techniques! Secondly, hydroponics minimizes many of the problems associated with traditional farming which means less sickly, damaged, or wasted crops.
Because hydroponic growers customize their own nutrients mixes, it takes the guess work out of figuring out which field has the best soil and proper nutrition for which crop. The nutrient mix is the right one for the particular plant, in the right ratios, every time. Also, soil based diseases are virtually eliminated because there is no soil. These two factors alone make hydroponics an extremely efficient method for producing food.
Benefits accrue to the environment as well. The water consumption in hydroponic growing is significantly less than traditional methods. In many cases, hydroponic crops use just one tenth of the water! Also, the water that is used is used more effectively. For example weeds cannot come in and steal part of the crop's water supply. And because the crops are in a controlled environment and not in a field, there is no pesticide run-off water to contaminate the surrounding ground.
The benefits are not without their costs however. The expense of hydroponic growing is an area where improvements need to be made. The nutrient mixtures and growing mediums used can be expensive.
Hydroponic growing also requires an increase in energy consumption. Much hydroponic growing happens in greenhouses, where significant amounts of electricity are used in order to give the hydroponic plants all the light they need.
While research is happening to try and bring the costs down (such as in the field of aquaponics), hydroponics can be financially prohibitive for those areas where it is most needed.
Research in the field of hydroponics is filled with promise and much research needs to be done. Many of the problems are being addressed however, and many farmers and amateur gardeners are eagerly awaiting new developments in this promising field.
Hydroponic Systems can be a fun and productive new way of gardening for you. We have tips and resources to get you started fast!
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
More articles can be found at Gardening News
Tuesday, January 16, 2007
3 Things to Consider when Building a Greenhouse
By Holly Masters
A greenhouse has the potential to provide many benefits for the average flower-lover. However, if they are not built in the appropriate location the results can be detrimental. That said, before you build a greenhouse, it is important to consider all aspects in order to ensure you receive the best results possible.
If you are thinking of building a greenhouse, but are unsure of factors which can affect the outcome, read the information below which will inform you on everything you need to know before you start building. Consider the following factors when determining where you are going to build your greenhouse:
1. Light – Everyone knows that plants need light to grow and sunlight is even more crucial for greenhouses because there are so many different types of plants and flowers requiring light. You do not want to build your greenhouse in an area which receives no sunlight at all however you do not want to build it in an area which receives too much sun either. Not enough can be harmful to the plants and flowers, yet so can too much sun. You will want to build your greenhouse in an area which receives a minimum of 6 full hours of sunlight a day. You may also want to consider planting a tree on either side of your lighthouse which will provide some shade through the day. Overhanging trees are not a good idea and may put your greenhouse in danger due to falling branches.
2. Convenience – You will want to build your greenhouse in a convenient area which can be easily accessed, but is not in an area which may be targeted by high winds. You don’t want to have to walk a mile just to get to your greenhouse because chances are you won’t maintain it as well this way. Other things to consider when building your greenhouse are access to electricity and water. These are important in the successful functioning of your greenhouse.
3. Setting – The actual setting of your greenhouse will greatly affect its overall performance. Many areas throughout the world receive high levels of rain during certain times of the year. This can be detrimental to operation of your greenhouse since too much rain can cause flooding inside. The best way to ensure this doesn’t happen is by building your greenhouse in a high level area that is a great deal higher than most of the other property.
Choosing the location of your greenhouse is the most important factor you will need to consider. Take your time and research all your options before you start building. A greenhouse is a large investment and you want to make sure the money you spend now will be worth it in the future. Holly Masters loves to garden and takes pride in her greenhouse. She has spent much time learning proper http://www.greenhousesandgazebos.com/hydroponics.aspx">hydroponics and serves as a contributing writer for http://www.greenhousesandgazebos.com – a site that offers information about everything from http://www.greenhousesandgazebos.com/storage-sheds.aspx">storage sheds to http://www.yardandgardendecor.com/gazebos.aspx">gazebos.
More articles can be found at Gardening News!
A greenhouse has the potential to provide many benefits for the average flower-lover. However, if they are not built in the appropriate location the results can be detrimental. That said, before you build a greenhouse, it is important to consider all aspects in order to ensure you receive the best results possible.
If you are thinking of building a greenhouse, but are unsure of factors which can affect the outcome, read the information below which will inform you on everything you need to know before you start building. Consider the following factors when determining where you are going to build your greenhouse:
1. Light – Everyone knows that plants need light to grow and sunlight is even more crucial for greenhouses because there are so many different types of plants and flowers requiring light. You do not want to build your greenhouse in an area which receives no sunlight at all however you do not want to build it in an area which receives too much sun either. Not enough can be harmful to the plants and flowers, yet so can too much sun. You will want to build your greenhouse in an area which receives a minimum of 6 full hours of sunlight a day. You may also want to consider planting a tree on either side of your lighthouse which will provide some shade through the day. Overhanging trees are not a good idea and may put your greenhouse in danger due to falling branches.
2. Convenience – You will want to build your greenhouse in a convenient area which can be easily accessed, but is not in an area which may be targeted by high winds. You don’t want to have to walk a mile just to get to your greenhouse because chances are you won’t maintain it as well this way. Other things to consider when building your greenhouse are access to electricity and water. These are important in the successful functioning of your greenhouse.
3. Setting – The actual setting of your greenhouse will greatly affect its overall performance. Many areas throughout the world receive high levels of rain during certain times of the year. This can be detrimental to operation of your greenhouse since too much rain can cause flooding inside. The best way to ensure this doesn’t happen is by building your greenhouse in a high level area that is a great deal higher than most of the other property.
Choosing the location of your greenhouse is the most important factor you will need to consider. Take your time and research all your options before you start building. A greenhouse is a large investment and you want to make sure the money you spend now will be worth it in the future. Holly Masters loves to garden and takes pride in her greenhouse. She has spent much time learning proper http://www.greenhousesandgazebos.com/hydroponics.aspx">hydroponics and serves as a contributing writer for http://www.greenhousesandgazebos.com – a site that offers information about everything from http://www.greenhousesandgazebos.com/storage-sheds.aspx">storage sheds to http://www.yardandgardendecor.com/gazebos.aspx">gazebos.
More articles can be found at Gardening News!
Monday, January 01, 2007
Sunday, November 26, 2006
Coffee Maker Blues
I swear I am cursed with coffee makers! The one I just reviewed a few posts below? Well, it is now dead. Went to make a second pot of coffee later in the day and no electric function at all. Sigh...........
Amazon is taking it back and replacing it with a new one. Not quite sure if I even want the same one right now, but I did like it (for the whole week it worked).
Amazon is taking it back and replacing it with a new one. Not quite sure if I even want the same one right now, but I did like it (for the whole week it worked).
Sunday, November 19, 2006
How To Read A Seed Catalog
By Kathy Anderson
You are welcome to use this article on your website or in your newsletter as long as you reprint it as is, including the contact information at the end. Website URLs must be active links. You are welcome to use this article with an affiliate link, http://www.freeplants.com/resellers.htm
Long before the first daffodils of the year come into bloom, seed catalogs are delivered to our mailboxes to herald the arrival of Spring. A good seed catalog contains so much information, it can sometimes be overwhelming for a novice gardener to decide which seeds to buy for their garden. Today I’ll explain how to interpret catalog descriptions for vegetable, herb and flower seeds.
Let’s start with vegetable and herb seed descriptions, since they’re fairly straightforward. A typical catalog listing for these seeds will look something like this description for lettuce seeds:
“Black Seeded Simpson (45 Day) Crisp, tender and sweet. Heat resistant. Pkt. $1.25”
In this description, “Black Seeded Simpson” is the name of the lettuce variety. “45 Day” refers to the average length of time from when the seeds germinate until the plant matures and is ready to harvest. Keep in mind that this number should be used only as an estimation. The actual maturity time will vary slightly with your particular growing conditions and the weather. This number is a rough guide and should be used mostly as a comparison with other varieties and when planning when to plant successive crops.
That’s pretty simple, right? But catalog descriptions aren’t that cut and dried for every vegetable.
Take sweet corn, for instance. The catalog description may indicate the length you can expect each ear to be at maturity, and even how many rows of kernels to expect on each ear. But you may also see some odd letters after the names of the corn varieties offered in some catalogs. EH, se, sh2, su…it’s like a secret code. Actually, these letters tell you a little about the flavor you can expect long before you ever bite into the first sweet, tender ear.
First of all, when you see any of these designations after the variety name, you’ll know you’re looking at a hybrid corn variety. These hybrids have been developed for certain desirable characteristics, such as flavor, tenderness, or durability for shipping.
An “su” hybrid is a normal sugary hybrid. They tend to be creamy and sweet, but they don’t store well. An “su” hybrid should be eaten within a couple of days of harvest. This would be a good choice for a home garden, but a poor choice for a commercial corn grower. They tend to not cross pollinate with the neighbor’s corn.
An “se” variety is a sugary enhanced hybrid. These varieties have a smooth, butter texture, very tender kernels and a longer harvest period. Sugary enhanced hybrids also tend to not cross pollinate readily, and need not be isolated from your neighbor’s corn.
Supersweet hybrid corn is designated as “sh2”. These varieties have a gene that enhances their sweetness and produces firm, crisp and juicy kernels. The texture is not as creamy as “se” or “su” varieties, but supersweet varieties do hold their flavor for up to ten days after harvest, making them a good choice for commercial growers. Supersweet corn will cross pollinate readily with other corn varieties, resulting in starchy kernels, so it’s best to plant supersweet varieties at least 25 feet from other corn in your garden.
Now let’s talk about flower seeds.
Flowering plants are categorized as either Annuals, Biennials or Perennials. Annuals will complete their entire life cycle in one growing season. Their seeds are planted in the spring, the plant grows rather quickly and blooms that same season. Marigolds and sunflowers are examples of flowering annuals.
A biennial plant will spend its first growing season establishing itself and storing energy. But it’s not until the following growing season that a biennial will bloom. Foxgloves and hollyhocks are biennials.
Perennials are plants that will continue to grow year after year without being replanted. They typically go dormant over winter and grow back from their roots the following spring. Astilbe, hostas and daylilies are examples of perennials.
Before choosing seeds from a catalog, you’ll need to know which growing zone you live in. Growing zones, also known as hardiness zones, are based on the average minimum temperatures for each zone. A growing zone map is included in every good garden catalog, making it quite easy to identify your garden’s hardiness zone. Growing zones with higher numbers are in warmer climates, while growing zones with lower numbers are in the north.
For all perennials, biennials, trees and shrubs, catalogs will indicate the range of zones in which the plants will perform consistently. For instance, Blue Fountains delphinium is listed as hardy in zones 3-7. This plant would not be likely to survive a long, cold winter in zone 2, nor would it tend to grow well in the heat of zones 8 or 9.
For best results and the most satisfaction from your gardening efforts, always choose seeds for plants that are hardy to the growing zone you live in. Buy seeds from a reputable company and avoid discounted seeds left over from the previous year. Most seed companies print planting instructions for each seed variety right on the back of the seed packet. By following these instructions carefully and choosing your seeds wisely, you’ll be well on your way to having a terrific garden.
Kathy Anderson has been an avid gardener for many years and has grown tomatoes by the acre, along with many other vegetables, flowers and landscape plants. Kathy recommends http://www.freeplants.com as a great place to learn more about gardening. Article provided by http://gardening-articles.com. If you use this article the above two links must be active.
Friday, November 10, 2006
Spring Dreams
I can't believe it's only November and I am already itching to get to work in the empty garden bed! I held off on bulbs this year, as we don't know the shape this bed will take and what is going in.
I did take 2 plants with me when me moved - the Razzmatazz cone flowers and my bleeding heart. Not sure if either will make it through the winter, as they got late plantings. Just stuck them in the ground to get them going, will move them in the spring (should they come up).
New birds around here to look at. Put up the feeders and tufted titmouse showed up, nuthatches and a woodpecker. I am really hoping for hummingbirds next year!
I did take 2 plants with me when me moved - the Razzmatazz cone flowers and my bleeding heart. Not sure if either will make it through the winter, as they got late plantings. Just stuck them in the ground to get them going, will move them in the spring (should they come up).
New birds around here to look at. Put up the feeders and tufted titmouse showed up, nuthatches and a woodpecker. I am really hoping for hummingbirds next year!
Tuesday, November 07, 2006
New gardens to do.
We have moved now, and new house means new gardens.
We actually don't have much in the way of land, but the front has a large empty garden bed. Obviously the previous owners were not gardeners at all. There is nothing but dirt. And the front lawn is non existent!
Definitely have a lot of work to do, with a whole winter to dream and plan!
We actually don't have much in the way of land, but the front has a large empty garden bed. Obviously the previous owners were not gardeners at all. There is nothing but dirt. And the front lawn is non existent!
Definitely have a lot of work to do, with a whole winter to dream and plan!
Saturday, August 12, 2006
Tuesday, July 18, 2006
Asters took a nose dive
Well, the bunnies must have decimated the asters too much. I went out the other day and all the remaining stubs turned yellow and died. Strange. All three of them at the same time.
Our house is up for sale, so of course I want the garden to look nice - without spending more money on plants! I moved some gaillarda from the side of the house to where the asters were. They aren't blooming yet, since they are small offshoots of the others. But they probably will soon.
With the heat wave, the garden is looking a little wilty, but hopefully some more rain will come.
New article on 5 medicinal herbs in the garden.
Our house is up for sale, so of course I want the garden to look nice - without spending more money on plants! I moved some gaillarda from the side of the house to where the asters were. They aren't blooming yet, since they are small offshoots of the others. But they probably will soon.
With the heat wave, the garden is looking a little wilty, but hopefully some more rain will come.
New article on 5 medicinal herbs in the garden.
Tuesday, July 11, 2006
Japanese beetles and new cone flowers
I have posted an article here onJapanese beetles.
I didn't get any of these on the first wave of blooms on my rose bushes this year. I did not use any type of control, either.
I have finally had success with a new cone flower called Razzmatazz. It took 2 years to bloom, but wow - it is so pretty! You can see a picture here.
I didn't get any of these on the first wave of blooms on my rose bushes this year. I did not use any type of control, either.
I have finally had success with a new cone flower called Razzmatazz. It took 2 years to bloom, but wow - it is so pretty! You can see a picture here.
Saturday, July 08, 2006
Killer rabbits
I know I am not alone with rabbits in the garden! I have a lovely butterfly garden planted. This year, the bunnies have really gone to town, like I planted them a personal salad bar....
This year, they ate the asters, which was expected. I was too lazy to put chicken wire around them. They also ate my black eyed susans! This was a total surprise. There are only little tiny stems left of those. However, they did not eat one of the black eyed susans that was up against the russian sage. Wonder if there is a reason for that?
The rabbits also are eating my burning bushes! They are unbelievable eating machines!! But gosh, they are so cute. We saw two tiny babies in the yard one day.
I have more articles posted here: Gardening News
This year, they ate the asters, which was expected. I was too lazy to put chicken wire around them. They also ate my black eyed susans! This was a total surprise. There are only little tiny stems left of those. However, they did not eat one of the black eyed susans that was up against the russian sage. Wonder if there is a reason for that?
The rabbits also are eating my burning bushes! They are unbelievable eating machines!! But gosh, they are so cute. We saw two tiny babies in the yard one day.
I have more articles posted here: Gardening News
Wednesday, July 05, 2006
Sunflowers and your garden
Have you ever wondered if what you know about Sunflowers And Your Garden is accurate? Consider the following paragraphs and compare what you know to the latest info on Sunflowers And Your Garden.
Sunflowers are certainly stars of the gardening world. It is hard to miss the beauty of sunflowers standing tall, either on their own or edging a bed of more traditional flowers. Few who have seen these stunning beauties can deny their stunning beauty and attractiveness.
The family of sunflowers, known scientifically as genus Helianthus, includes both annual and perennial varieties of sunflowers. As their name implies, sunflowers generally prefer full sunlight, so it is important for gardeners to choose the sunniest part of their garden when planting these stunning plants.
It is also important to take the adult size of these plants into account when planting them, and to space them accordingly. Most varieties of sunflowers are quite large, so it is important to space them widely so they will not crowd each other out and compete for nutrients.
Since sunflowers are so large and sturdy, many gardeners like to use them to border vegetable gardens, and a vegetable garden bordered by sunflowers is certainly a beautiful sight.
It's really a good idea to probe a little deeper into the subject of Sunflowers And Your Garden. What you learn may give you the confidence you need to venture into new areas.
The blooming period of sunflowers typically extends from late summer to early fall, and the growing requirements for these plants are generally easy to meet. Most varieties of sunflowers require only a well drained, modestly fertile soil in order to thrive. It is generally a good idea to amend the soil with either aged manure or a good quality commercial fertilizer. It is best to sow the sunflower seeds directly where they are intended to grow, since they set seed quickly and start to sprout very fast.
While sunflowers may be easy to grow, their seeds are popular with many unwanted garden visitors, particularly rabbits, squirrels and insects. Due to this popularly with common garden pests, it is best to sow three times as many seeds as are needed. Planting extra seeds will allow the four legged visitors to your garden to eat their fill while still providing a beautiful garden full of sunflowers.
Sunflower seeds are best planted about a foot apart. Sowing the seeds this far apart will allow the adult plants to grow the largest heads. If you plant sunflowers closer together they will develop smaller blooms and may never reach their full potential. If you are growing sunflowers for those monstrous blossoms, it is important to give them plenty of space to grow.
When working with annual varieties of sunflowers, it is important to rotate the planting area. This will keep the soil its healthiest and allow the sunflowers to achieve their best blooms.
There are many places to buy quality sunflower seeds, including the internet, mail order houses and local garden centers. As with any flower seeds, it is important to follow the planting instructions carefully to achieve the best results from these spectacular plants.
This article's coverage of the information is as complete as it can be today. But you should always leave open the possibility that future research could uncover new facts.
B. Keith Johnson is a contributing author for
Flower Gardens. Visit his other sites for
Product Reviews, Free Website Content and
Free Photo Sharing
Hotlib.com Articles - Huge collection of free articles and free reports
Sunflowers are certainly stars of the gardening world. It is hard to miss the beauty of sunflowers standing tall, either on their own or edging a bed of more traditional flowers. Few who have seen these stunning beauties can deny their stunning beauty and attractiveness.
The family of sunflowers, known scientifically as genus Helianthus, includes both annual and perennial varieties of sunflowers. As their name implies, sunflowers generally prefer full sunlight, so it is important for gardeners to choose the sunniest part of their garden when planting these stunning plants.
It is also important to take the adult size of these plants into account when planting them, and to space them accordingly. Most varieties of sunflowers are quite large, so it is important to space them widely so they will not crowd each other out and compete for nutrients.
Since sunflowers are so large and sturdy, many gardeners like to use them to border vegetable gardens, and a vegetable garden bordered by sunflowers is certainly a beautiful sight.
It's really a good idea to probe a little deeper into the subject of Sunflowers And Your Garden. What you learn may give you the confidence you need to venture into new areas.
The blooming period of sunflowers typically extends from late summer to early fall, and the growing requirements for these plants are generally easy to meet. Most varieties of sunflowers require only a well drained, modestly fertile soil in order to thrive. It is generally a good idea to amend the soil with either aged manure or a good quality commercial fertilizer. It is best to sow the sunflower seeds directly where they are intended to grow, since they set seed quickly and start to sprout very fast.
While sunflowers may be easy to grow, their seeds are popular with many unwanted garden visitors, particularly rabbits, squirrels and insects. Due to this popularly with common garden pests, it is best to sow three times as many seeds as are needed. Planting extra seeds will allow the four legged visitors to your garden to eat their fill while still providing a beautiful garden full of sunflowers.
Sunflower seeds are best planted about a foot apart. Sowing the seeds this far apart will allow the adult plants to grow the largest heads. If you plant sunflowers closer together they will develop smaller blooms and may never reach their full potential. If you are growing sunflowers for those monstrous blossoms, it is important to give them plenty of space to grow.
When working with annual varieties of sunflowers, it is important to rotate the planting area. This will keep the soil its healthiest and allow the sunflowers to achieve their best blooms.
There are many places to buy quality sunflower seeds, including the internet, mail order houses and local garden centers. As with any flower seeds, it is important to follow the planting instructions carefully to achieve the best results from these spectacular plants.
This article's coverage of the information is as complete as it can be today. But you should always leave open the possibility that future research could uncover new facts.
B. Keith Johnson is a contributing author for
Flower Gardens. Visit his other sites for
Product Reviews, Free Website Content and
Free Photo Sharing
Hotlib.com Articles - Huge collection of free articles and free reports
Sunday, July 02, 2006
How to divide perennials
Perennials are a favorite type of garden plant for many gardens as they will bloom for several seasons without replanting. Perhaps one of the best qualities of perennials is that you can divide them and make more plants for free! Dividing your perennials periodically is important as it will keep them from getting overcrowded and help insure healthy lush plants.
Many perennials can be divided easily, but this does not hold try for every variety. In general, division is easiest with perennials that grow in clumps or ones with an expanding root mass. Perennials which stem from single taproot typically cannot be divided but can be duplicated by using root cuttings or seeds.
It is important to divide the plant at a time when the plant is most likely to be receptive to this procedure. Fr plants that come up in spring and summer, the best time to divide them is in the fall Perennials that bloom in the fall or late summer should be divided in the spring.
You can divide perennials with a minimum of preparation. If you will be replanting the divisions, you should have already decided on the new area and prepared the soil to accept the new plants. If you are dividing to give the plants to a family member or friend, have an appropriate receptacle handy to put the division in.
Loosen the soil, gently, around the plant clump that you plan to divide. You can use a spading fork to scrape up the dirt and be sure not to damage any parts of the plant. The clump should then be sliced with a garden trowel and divided into four parts. Make sure your trowel is sharp so you get a clean cut, otherwise your plants could become damaged. Break up the four sections by hand into four inche by four inche sections. Plant the small sections immediately.
When you are dividing plants, make sure you thoroughly wet the soil a couple of days before you do the division. This will make it easier to dig up the clump for division. Also, you should add compost or some other organic material to the soil both around the original plant and in the soil where the new divisions will be planted. This will give the plants the nutrition they need and help them to grow strong in their new area of the garden. Once the new plants are in place, make sure you water thoroughly and fertilize appropriately.
Planning your perennial plantings and divisions can help you grow your garden without having to spend extra money. All it takes is a little bit of time and patience and you can have a large full garden on even a small budget!
Lee Dobbins writes for Backyard Garden And Patio where you can get more great gardening and landscaping tips.
Copyright Lee Dobbins - www.backyard-garden-and-patio.com
Many perennials can be divided easily, but this does not hold try for every variety. In general, division is easiest with perennials that grow in clumps or ones with an expanding root mass. Perennials which stem from single taproot typically cannot be divided but can be duplicated by using root cuttings or seeds.
It is important to divide the plant at a time when the plant is most likely to be receptive to this procedure. Fr plants that come up in spring and summer, the best time to divide them is in the fall Perennials that bloom in the fall or late summer should be divided in the spring.
You can divide perennials with a minimum of preparation. If you will be replanting the divisions, you should have already decided on the new area and prepared the soil to accept the new plants. If you are dividing to give the plants to a family member or friend, have an appropriate receptacle handy to put the division in.
Loosen the soil, gently, around the plant clump that you plan to divide. You can use a spading fork to scrape up the dirt and be sure not to damage any parts of the plant. The clump should then be sliced with a garden trowel and divided into four parts. Make sure your trowel is sharp so you get a clean cut, otherwise your plants could become damaged. Break up the four sections by hand into four inche by four inche sections. Plant the small sections immediately.
When you are dividing plants, make sure you thoroughly wet the soil a couple of days before you do the division. This will make it easier to dig up the clump for division. Also, you should add compost or some other organic material to the soil both around the original plant and in the soil where the new divisions will be planted. This will give the plants the nutrition they need and help them to grow strong in their new area of the garden. Once the new plants are in place, make sure you water thoroughly and fertilize appropriately.
Planning your perennial plantings and divisions can help you grow your garden without having to spend extra money. All it takes is a little bit of time and patience and you can have a large full garden on even a small budget!
Lee Dobbins writes for Backyard Garden And Patio where you can get more great gardening and landscaping tips.
Copyright Lee Dobbins - www.backyard-garden-and-patio.com
Friday, June 30, 2006
Annuals Vs Perennials
So you like flowers, want more color in your garden, but don’t have time to study what to plant in depth? You keep hearing the same words around flowers and in nurseries: perrenial, annual. What do they mean, and what on earth should you plant?
An annual plant is a plant which blooms only once, during its annual cycle. Spring annuals flower in spring, summer annuals in summer, etc. If you plant petunias by the garden gate and they blossom in May and you want them there again next May, you’ll have to replant. Except for a possible stray survivor that may come up next year, those particular plants are finished with their job by your garden gate.
The one exception to the rule is the half-hardy annual, often designated by "HHA" in seed catalogues. This is a plant which is not devastated by early frost, and may, given the right conditions, come up a second or more time. Biennials, on the other hand, are perennials which only bloom in the second year of their life and then some.
Perennial plants, on the other hand, come up over and over again, year after year, as long as conditions for their blooming remain beneficial. If you plant cone flowers by the garage this year, they will bloom in season, die out during the winter, then come up next year, and the next, to bloom again.
So why would you choose annuals if they require more replanting? What are the benefits of annuals? What are the possible drawbacks of perennials, and which plants are which?
First, since annuals like petunias, marigolds and impatiens are born, grow, bloom and die in one season, it seems clear that they are more labor intensive than plants that continue blooming over time. One benefit of using annuals in the garden, however, is ease of availability. Such plants are big favorites of commercial growers, and appear in the spring in a large variety of colors and types, such as double or single flowers, low or medium height plants, and a multitude of colors. Since they are often already in bloom when they are purchased, the gardener can easily visualize the appearance of the garden with their addition.
Many annuals continue to bloom and grow all through their season. They can be clipped, their spent blossoms removed, and new blossoms will form, making for long lasting color and texture in the garden. In addition, annuals are inexpensive to produce and obtain. If some of the annuals purchased fail to thrive, they can be ripped out and more annuals replanted. When a bare spot in the garden suddenly appears it'’ a simple matter to buy an annual plant or two and fill in with them until more permanent plans are possible.
Generally speaking, annuals are extremely versatile in the garden, usually bright and outgoing flowers, and predictable in habit. If you grew impatiens before, you pretty much know how they’ll grow again. They are also fairly easy to start from seed yourself, without waiting for an extensive and undependable germination or growing time.
Both annuals and perennials come in differently brnaching habits--some may contain clusters of small flowers, others, a single, flat or conical blossom on a stem. All perennials, however, are sometimes difficult to germinate. Their germination times are usually longer, and somewhat uneven. My experience with delphiniums, a favorite of mine, for example, is that of a 50% germination rate, despite trying three different seed brands and two different varieties. Perennial seedlings are usually extremely small, thin stemmed and delicate, except for the hardiest of varieties. This makes them hard to start in the home greenhouse.
Most times, the grower must rely on local greenhouses and therefore, on limited varieties of species. Some perennials are almost impossible to find when you’re ready for them, although they can be ordered in plant form from many catalogue houses, which are quite reliable. Fall planted perennials, however, do not seem reliable in the southern New England area where I live—it’s possible they do not get a good enough start in the ground before weather turns harsh, but again, many nurseries do not carry what the home gardener is seeking, and one must depend on catalogues and their often unreliable delivery systems.
If a perennial plant does not make it in the garden and needs to be replaced, it’s often next to impossible to find the species, color and size you’re looking for in nurseries. In general, perennial flowers are also not as vivid as annuals, although the sweet news is that they will return to bloom again and again in future years. Some colors come up short in perennials; admittedly there are fewer flowers in bright red shades, more in subtle and pale colors like pink, mauve, lilac, white and peach.
While perennials are not always clip-and-come-again flowers, and sometimes have a shorter blooming season than most annuals, their heights are more variable than annuals; there are tiny, low growing perennials, medium height perennials and very tall perennials. Annuals, on the other hand, do not seem to come in such varying lengths—they tend toward mid-size flowers, but here are some in varying heights which are among the more popular annuals in the northeast.
Low-growing( eight-to-ten inches or less): sweet alyssum, certain gazanias, gerbera, hybrid pelargonium (geranium), pansies and lobelia. Mid-sized (1-15 inch plants) are many: aegeratum, impatiens, petunias of many kind, lisianthus, marigolds, nasturtium, celosia and phlox. Taller varieties include rudbeckia (black-eyed susans), snapdragons, larkspur, leonotis, hollyhock, strawflowers, statice, baby’s breath, cleome and cosmos.
Perennials in the different height ranges include: low-growing—perennial candytuft, lily-of-the-valley, ice plant, plumbago, low-growing eidelweiss (alpine flowers), dianthus; myrtle and creepingthyme; medium height--arisaema, perennial alyssum, anemone, silene, dianthus, perennial gaillardia, scabiosa; tall growing—asclepias, a frikarti asters, baptisia, astilbe, clematis, canna, acchillea, agastache, bleeding heart, columbine, chrysanthemum, delphinium, digitalis, shasta daisy, lupine, penstemon, hardy phlox, potentilla, coneflower and sedum.
If you are new to gardening, it might be wise to start with annuals placed in your garden where you think they may work, taller flowers at the rear of the border or area, mid-sized ones in front of them, and finally, low-growers at the front. Study the garden in bloom, and decide where you want different color and form in the years to come. Begin to invest in the planting of perennials for height, subtle color, and variety.
Even when you have a nicely blooming perennial garden, you still may want a spot for a splash of color, different each year, for which annuals may fill the bill. In other words, don’t rush in with perennials—they’re expensive, long-lasting but you may tire of them year after year. On the other hand, planting tens or hundreds of annuals every year can be exhausting—and expensive!
The choice is yours. Whatever you decide, the color, scent, and joy of flowers can be yours—in your own unique way.
Written by Eleanor Sullo - © 2002 Pagewise
An annual plant is a plant which blooms only once, during its annual cycle. Spring annuals flower in spring, summer annuals in summer, etc. If you plant petunias by the garden gate and they blossom in May and you want them there again next May, you’ll have to replant. Except for a possible stray survivor that may come up next year, those particular plants are finished with their job by your garden gate.
The one exception to the rule is the half-hardy annual, often designated by "HHA" in seed catalogues. This is a plant which is not devastated by early frost, and may, given the right conditions, come up a second or more time. Biennials, on the other hand, are perennials which only bloom in the second year of their life and then some.
Perennial plants, on the other hand, come up over and over again, year after year, as long as conditions for their blooming remain beneficial. If you plant cone flowers by the garage this year, they will bloom in season, die out during the winter, then come up next year, and the next, to bloom again.
So why would you choose annuals if they require more replanting? What are the benefits of annuals? What are the possible drawbacks of perennials, and which plants are which?
First, since annuals like petunias, marigolds and impatiens are born, grow, bloom and die in one season, it seems clear that they are more labor intensive than plants that continue blooming over time. One benefit of using annuals in the garden, however, is ease of availability. Such plants are big favorites of commercial growers, and appear in the spring in a large variety of colors and types, such as double or single flowers, low or medium height plants, and a multitude of colors. Since they are often already in bloom when they are purchased, the gardener can easily visualize the appearance of the garden with their addition.
Many annuals continue to bloom and grow all through their season. They can be clipped, their spent blossoms removed, and new blossoms will form, making for long lasting color and texture in the garden. In addition, annuals are inexpensive to produce and obtain. If some of the annuals purchased fail to thrive, they can be ripped out and more annuals replanted. When a bare spot in the garden suddenly appears it'’ a simple matter to buy an annual plant or two and fill in with them until more permanent plans are possible.
Generally speaking, annuals are extremely versatile in the garden, usually bright and outgoing flowers, and predictable in habit. If you grew impatiens before, you pretty much know how they’ll grow again. They are also fairly easy to start from seed yourself, without waiting for an extensive and undependable germination or growing time.
Both annuals and perennials come in differently brnaching habits--some may contain clusters of small flowers, others, a single, flat or conical blossom on a stem. All perennials, however, are sometimes difficult to germinate. Their germination times are usually longer, and somewhat uneven. My experience with delphiniums, a favorite of mine, for example, is that of a 50% germination rate, despite trying three different seed brands and two different varieties. Perennial seedlings are usually extremely small, thin stemmed and delicate, except for the hardiest of varieties. This makes them hard to start in the home greenhouse.
Most times, the grower must rely on local greenhouses and therefore, on limited varieties of species. Some perennials are almost impossible to find when you’re ready for them, although they can be ordered in plant form from many catalogue houses, which are quite reliable. Fall planted perennials, however, do not seem reliable in the southern New England area where I live—it’s possible they do not get a good enough start in the ground before weather turns harsh, but again, many nurseries do not carry what the home gardener is seeking, and one must depend on catalogues and their often unreliable delivery systems.
If a perennial plant does not make it in the garden and needs to be replaced, it’s often next to impossible to find the species, color and size you’re looking for in nurseries. In general, perennial flowers are also not as vivid as annuals, although the sweet news is that they will return to bloom again and again in future years. Some colors come up short in perennials; admittedly there are fewer flowers in bright red shades, more in subtle and pale colors like pink, mauve, lilac, white and peach.
While perennials are not always clip-and-come-again flowers, and sometimes have a shorter blooming season than most annuals, their heights are more variable than annuals; there are tiny, low growing perennials, medium height perennials and very tall perennials. Annuals, on the other hand, do not seem to come in such varying lengths—they tend toward mid-size flowers, but here are some in varying heights which are among the more popular annuals in the northeast.
Low-growing( eight-to-ten inches or less): sweet alyssum, certain gazanias, gerbera, hybrid pelargonium (geranium), pansies and lobelia. Mid-sized (1-15 inch plants) are many: aegeratum, impatiens, petunias of many kind, lisianthus, marigolds, nasturtium, celosia and phlox. Taller varieties include rudbeckia (black-eyed susans), snapdragons, larkspur, leonotis, hollyhock, strawflowers, statice, baby’s breath, cleome and cosmos.
Perennials in the different height ranges include: low-growing—perennial candytuft, lily-of-the-valley, ice plant, plumbago, low-growing eidelweiss (alpine flowers), dianthus; myrtle and creepingthyme; medium height--arisaema, perennial alyssum, anemone, silene, dianthus, perennial gaillardia, scabiosa; tall growing—asclepias, a frikarti asters, baptisia, astilbe, clematis, canna, acchillea, agastache, bleeding heart, columbine, chrysanthemum, delphinium, digitalis, shasta daisy, lupine, penstemon, hardy phlox, potentilla, coneflower and sedum.
If you are new to gardening, it might be wise to start with annuals placed in your garden where you think they may work, taller flowers at the rear of the border or area, mid-sized ones in front of them, and finally, low-growers at the front. Study the garden in bloom, and decide where you want different color and form in the years to come. Begin to invest in the planting of perennials for height, subtle color, and variety.
Even when you have a nicely blooming perennial garden, you still may want a spot for a splash of color, different each year, for which annuals may fill the bill. In other words, don’t rush in with perennials—they’re expensive, long-lasting but you may tire of them year after year. On the other hand, planting tens or hundreds of annuals every year can be exhausting—and expensive!
The choice is yours. Whatever you decide, the color, scent, and joy of flowers can be yours—in your own unique way.
Written by Eleanor Sullo - © 2002 Pagewise
Wednesday, June 28, 2006
Snapdragons
One of nature's most stunning examples of color and beauty is the snapdragon.
Rows of perfectly formed, beautifully painted flowers adorn many stems. These well-favored annuals come in a wide assortment of colors and varieties. The website "Annuals A-Z: Choosing and Growing Antirrhinums", written and published by Graham Rice in 1999, says most annuals are not available in as many colors as the snapdragon. Various shades of white, scarlet, yellow, purple, pink, and peach are available. Two-toned snapdragons are particularly showy.
This softly scented flower comes in various sizes as well, ranging from dwarf varieties to varieties that can reach a height of four feet, according to the same article. Taller varieties make beautiful backdrops for shorter plants, and shorter to medium height varieties make nice borders. "Annuals A-Z: Choosing and Growing Antirrhinums" recommends "Lampion" for hanging baskets, which is a lovely cascading variety. Recommended for window boxes is a dwarf variety called "Kim". It boosts dazzling orange and yellow flowers. "Burpee: Complete Gardener" published in 1995 by Macmillan, suggests planting low-growing varieties as ground cover. One such variety is "Floral Carpet Hybrid". It also makes a nice flower for a border or window box.
Snapdragons produce more blooms when temperatures are cool, according to "Burpee: Complete Gardener". Snapdragons are often sold in garden centers and greenhouses, and they can be purchased as fully developed plants. If starting snapdragons from seed, they should be planted indoors approximately two to three months before spring planting.
The same book says snapdragons require light to begin sprouting, so the seeds should be sprinkled on top of the soil in peat pots, trays, or containers. Covering the peat pots, trays, or containers with clear plastic will help retain valuable moisture during germination adds "Burpee: Complete Gardener". Also, pinching off the tops of snapdragons that are about four inches tall will encourage the plant to branch out. Before you transfer your snapdragons to the outdoors, check the plant hardiness zone for your particular location. The same article says light frost will not adversely affect snapdragons, but heavy frost can be damaging. In addition, they should slowly be introduced to the outdoors before transplanting. Setting them outside for a few hours each day will strengthen and prepare them for outdoor conditions.
"Burpee: Complete Gardener" recommends planting snapdragons while temperatures are still cool in spring or early in the summer. They will do best in a sunny location with soil that drains well. The same book says the first blooms on snapdragons are usually the largest, but a greater quantity of flowers will bloom after the first ones are finished. It goes on to say that flowering will slow down during hot weather and will resume again when the temperature drops. Also, dead flower stalks should be removed to promote new growth. "Burpee: Complete Gardener" recommends supporting taller varieties with stakes.
Snapdragons are a spectacular addition to any flower bed or garden. They are easy to grow, are very versatile, and you will appreciate the touch of color and beauty they add to your property.
Written by Kimberly Osburn - © 2002 Pagewise
Rows of perfectly formed, beautifully painted flowers adorn many stems. These well-favored annuals come in a wide assortment of colors and varieties. The website "Annuals A-Z: Choosing and Growing Antirrhinums", written and published by Graham Rice in 1999, says most annuals are not available in as many colors as the snapdragon. Various shades of white, scarlet, yellow, purple, pink, and peach are available. Two-toned snapdragons are particularly showy.
This softly scented flower comes in various sizes as well, ranging from dwarf varieties to varieties that can reach a height of four feet, according to the same article. Taller varieties make beautiful backdrops for shorter plants, and shorter to medium height varieties make nice borders. "Annuals A-Z: Choosing and Growing Antirrhinums" recommends "Lampion" for hanging baskets, which is a lovely cascading variety. Recommended for window boxes is a dwarf variety called "Kim". It boosts dazzling orange and yellow flowers. "Burpee: Complete Gardener" published in 1995 by Macmillan, suggests planting low-growing varieties as ground cover. One such variety is "Floral Carpet Hybrid". It also makes a nice flower for a border or window box.
Snapdragons produce more blooms when temperatures are cool, according to "Burpee: Complete Gardener". Snapdragons are often sold in garden centers and greenhouses, and they can be purchased as fully developed plants. If starting snapdragons from seed, they should be planted indoors approximately two to three months before spring planting.
The same book says snapdragons require light to begin sprouting, so the seeds should be sprinkled on top of the soil in peat pots, trays, or containers. Covering the peat pots, trays, or containers with clear plastic will help retain valuable moisture during germination adds "Burpee: Complete Gardener". Also, pinching off the tops of snapdragons that are about four inches tall will encourage the plant to branch out. Before you transfer your snapdragons to the outdoors, check the plant hardiness zone for your particular location. The same article says light frost will not adversely affect snapdragons, but heavy frost can be damaging. In addition, they should slowly be introduced to the outdoors before transplanting. Setting them outside for a few hours each day will strengthen and prepare them for outdoor conditions.
"Burpee: Complete Gardener" recommends planting snapdragons while temperatures are still cool in spring or early in the summer. They will do best in a sunny location with soil that drains well. The same book says the first blooms on snapdragons are usually the largest, but a greater quantity of flowers will bloom after the first ones are finished. It goes on to say that flowering will slow down during hot weather and will resume again when the temperature drops. Also, dead flower stalks should be removed to promote new growth. "Burpee: Complete Gardener" recommends supporting taller varieties with stakes.
Snapdragons are a spectacular addition to any flower bed or garden. They are easy to grow, are very versatile, and you will appreciate the touch of color and beauty they add to your property.
Written by Kimberly Osburn - © 2002 Pagewise
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